| 摘要: | 背景與目的：由於臭氧層的破壞，人們為了保護肌膚免於日光引起光害，如紅斑、黑斑、雀斑、光老化、免疫系統封閉、光敏感性及皮膚癌等，使得防曬化粧品成為化粧品市場熱門需求與選項，然而由於市售商品品質良莠不齊，價位參差不一，因此如何保障消費者能夠經濟且有效安全的使用防曬化粧品，已經成為重要課題。再加上一直以來防曬化粧品之期刊所發表提供的實驗參考配方，其商業應用性仍多待證實；而釵h可應用性配方則多以專利性質發表，因此涉及專利問題與商業機密，也不易獲得。所以擬透過實驗設計，探討並尋求影響化粧品之有效性與安定性之間重要因素，以及這些重要因素之間的交互作用如何影響產品之特性，因而開發真正具有潛力且具有學術參考價值的防曬化粧品配方。實驗方法：本研究整理近十年所發表之防曬產品資訊，發現有釵h發表牽涉載體系統與防曬成分刺激性配方探討；另一方面從市售產品之物性評估及比對產品包裝標示，發現之間存在釵h相異性。因而本研究先實驗篩選適合應用防曬配方之界面活性劑與系統，再改變不同變因，包括乳化添加順序、攪拌速度、乳化溫度(冷、熱乳化)以及變換防曬成分，如單一添加或兩種以上防曬成分添加等等對產品安定性及有效性之影響，並從中找尋最佳之防曬配方。結果：為找尋最佳界面活性劑系統，實驗四種界面活性劑(Tween/Span、Covacream、CD pol、P135)對防曬成分與油相成分之乳化能力，發現以Covacream在各種不同油脂與防曬成分中有較好的乳化能力，亦即所製得的防曬乳液(霜)產品具有最佳的安定性。其流變行為顯示有最好的使用性、塗抹感及觸感。另外以單一或兩種以上防曬成分添加的產品，發現化學性成分產品其所使用的防曬成分濃度與SPF有效性呈現較好之線性關係，亦即化學性防曬的使用濃度越高SPF的有效性就隨之比例提高而增加。另混合添加比添加較單一成分之添加有較好的SPF值。結論：目前所製得具代表性且安定性與效性好的防曬乳霜配方為(安定性約逹180天，SPF值60，PA*** )：Covacream 3g、Squlane 3g、C.C.T. 3g、Finsolv TN 3g、MOS 70 6g、Parsol MCX 5g、Parsol 1789 2g、Benzophen-3 1g、TiO2 4g、Germaben II 0.8g、P.G.5g、Carbopol 940 0.3g及去離子水到產品總量100 g。
For decades, people have been in photodamage, primary due to the severely broken ozone layer in the atmosphere. During the day, most people apply suncreams on their skin for protecting them from photodamage such as spots, freckle, wrinkle, pigmentation, photoaging, skin disease, and even skin cancer. The needs for counteracting against the UV-induced skin damage and increasing skin protection agains UV rays lead to the development of suncreams with high effectiveness- or high SPF. However, it is well known that the higher the SPF of
suncreams, the greater the stimulating on skin. So it is important to search for the ways to improve SPF without increasing the level of sunscreen actives. A great number of such sunscreams have been commercialized. Indeed their quality, safety and effectiveness are not guaranteed. Moreover, most of the reports on these suncreams have been published in patent, it is really hard to obtain these suncream's information including the know-how about production technique and commercialized secret. Hence, this study is designed to investigate the development of elegant suncreams with high safe and effectiveness. For the study, four of approved sunscreens are selected as active
agents against UV rays. Different compositions including sunscreen alone
and combinations of sunscreens are incorporated and various emulsification processes are performed. But in the presence of sunscreen, suncreams easily exhibit a tendency to have instability. Thus, their changes in physicochemical properties such as droplet size, conductivity, rheological behavior need to be realized to optimize sunscreen formulations. On the other hand, the efficacy of these suncreams is determined instrumentally by in vitro SPF method. From the results, we found that the instability of sun products will significantly impact on the efficacy. This will result in different SPF value in every part of a sun product. Fortunately, sunscreen formulations with good storage stability for storage are obtained when compared to the commercialized suncreams. Moreover, the suncreams with combinations exhibited higher SPF than those with sunscreen alone. Based on these findings, a desired formulations has been obtained . With high SPF of 60 and reasonable stability , it is composed of Covacream 3g, Squlane 3g, C.C.T. 3g, Finsolv TN 3g, MOS 70 6g. Parsol MCX 5g, Parsol 1789 2g、Benzophen-3 1g, TiO2 4g, Germaben II 0.8g, Carbopol 940 0.3g、P.G. 5g,
and deioned water to 100g. |
