| 摘要: | 台灣化粧品市場年銷售總值約600億至800億元，而美白、防曬訴求之相關產品又占其總銷售值50%以上，故各大化粧品廠商無不積極研發相關產品或有效原料。而評估其有效性方式，大多藉由酪胺酸酶（tyrosinase）活性抑制程度或抑制黑色素瘤細胞（melanoma cell）之黑色素生成程度來評估其有效性，但使用in vitro評估之結果，與正常皮膚吸收途徑有很大之差異。本研究探討台灣各年齡層膚色之特性，以建立台灣女性膚色之指標，結果可作為相關產品in vivo評估之依據。
本研究探討不同年齡層膚色差異，以130位台灣女性，年齡範圍5 ~ 59歲，每10歲為一單位，區分為六種年齡區間(5 ~ 9歲、10 ~ 19歲、20 ~ 29歲、30 ~ 39歲、40 ~ 49歲、50 ~ 59歲)。測試方使用CIE1976L AB表色法，將膚色以量化數據來表示。
結果顯示：1.)額頭明度之變化：L*值無因年齡的增長而出現明顯的改變(58.36±2.27)；a*值會隨著年齡增長而上升(9.52±0.98 → 11.50±2.36)；b*值不會因年齡的增長而出現明顯的改變(17.35±1.64)。2.)臉頰明度變化：L*值於5 ~ 29歲時，隨年齡增長而上升(62.38±1.88 → 64.03±2.54)，而30 ~ 59歲時，則隨年齡增長而下降(61.77±2.43 → 59.96±1.94)；a*值隨著年齡增長而上升(7.01±0.92 → 9.42±1.24)；b*值不會因年齡的增長而出現明顯的改變(17.13±1.64)。3.)額頭與臉頰之最大色差變化: ΔL於20 ~ 29歲年齡區間，出現最大差異( >5.32)，屬於第四級明顯色差；Δa於5 ~ 9歲年齡區間，出現最大差異( >2.51)，屬於第三級可感色差；Δb於10 ~ 19歲年齡區間，出現最大差異( >1.61)，屬於第三級可感色差。
研究結果可建立台灣女性不同年齡層膚色之標準及評估膚色之方法，藉此標準評估系統可做為以下之依據。1.)判斷膚色之依據。2.)提供美白、防曬評估之依據。
The annual gross sales of Taiwan cosmetics market amount to 60~80 billions. Over 50% of the main trend products target to “whitening" and " sun protection". Therefore, the brand cosmetic manufacturers put in lots of manpower to research and develop how to improve the relative products or effective materials. To estimate the efficiency, the methods of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinease, or inhibiting the melanin synthesis by melanoma cells were used.. However, there are huge difference between the result of evaluation of in vitro and the skin abnormality in normal path. This thesis is to investigate the skin complexion characteristics of all ages, and to build the indices of Taiwan female skin complexion. The result can be became a foundation of in vivo in relative mass products thus.
The study investigates the skin complexion difference between the ages；130 Taiwan females, whose ages are in the range of 5 to 59, are sampled in the research. There are 6 ranges digitalized by the each decade, i.e. 5~9, 10~19, 20~29, 30~39, 40~49, and 50~59. The method of the experiment is to measure the data with CIE1976L AB, and tell the difference of each skin complexion by quantification expression.
The statistics point out the following. (1) The index of the brightness of the forehead: the variation in the brightness of the forehead (the value of L) doesn’t change with the ages, the L* value is 58.36±2.27. While the a* value keeps rising with ages (9.52±0.98 → 11.50±2.36), the b* value doesn’t proportion to the ages (17.35±1.64). (2) The index of the brightness of the cheeks: it has the positive proportion in the ages of 5 ~ 29 (62.38±1.88 → 64.03±2.54) and the negative proportion in the ages of 30~59 (61.77±2.43 → 59.96±1.94). While the a* value keeps rising with ages (7.01±0.92 → 9.42±1.24), the b* value doesn’t proportion to the ages (17.13±1.64). (3) The maximum variation between the forehead brightness and cheeks brightness: the maximum variation is over 5.32 ,which appears between area ΔL and area Ⅲ, is the 4th grade appreciable；the maximum variation is over 2.51 ,which appears between area Δa and area I, is the 3th grade noticeable；the maximum variation is over 1.61 ,which appears between area Δb and area II, is the 3th grade noticeable.
A model is proposed to establish the golden samples of the skin complexion standard in all ages in Taiwan females and to evaluate how to rank the skin complexion in the research. People can adjust the skin complexion and evaluate the functions of “whitening" and " sun protection" products according to the standard evaluation system. |
