美白保養品是國內極為重要的化粧品，由於美白產品多直接使用於皮膚，但皮膚不易穿透的特性卻讓釵h活性成分的吸收受到限制，因此了解美白活性成分於皮膚之穿透與吸收劑量對於美白產品的有效性十分重要。本研究選用經常添加於美白化妝品中且對細胞無毒性的熊果素為代表美白成分，以豬皮為皮膚來源，利用動態式經皮吸收擴散槽收集樣品並配合 HPLC/UV 分析，分別評估丙二醇、 1,3 丁二醇、甘油及油酸等促進劑對於精華液、水包油及油包水型乳液等不同劑型中熊果素經皮吸收之影響，另外，更進一步觀察不同界面活性劑添加量對於熊果素經皮吸收之影響。本研究結果顯示，未添加促進劑時，精華液中熊果素即具經皮穿透效果，而於精華液配方添加促進劑確實可顯著的增加熊果素的經皮吸收，其中以 5% 丙二醇的促進效果為最佳，其次為 5% 1,3丁二醇。然而，但於 O/W 或 W/O 配方添加促進劑則反而減少了熊果素的經皮吸收，尤其 5% 油酸的添加更是顯著的減少熊果素於皮膚的穿透。此外，界面活性劑的添加亦會影響熊果素的經皮吸收，且具濃度依存關係。以上結果說明，配方劑型、促進劑的添加與選擇對於化妝品中活性成分的經皮吸收有很大的影響。 The efficacy of any product containing a functional ingredient is determined by the skin delivery of the active molecule. The effects of vehicles and penetration enhancers on the in vitro permeation of arbutin through porcine skin were investigated. Various types of vehicles, including essence, O/W, W/O emulsions, and then Propylene Glycol (PG), 1,3-Butylene Glycol (1,3 BG) , glycerin, and oleic acid were employed as enhancers, respectively. The effects of surfactant—Tween20— in different concentration were also studied. The skin permeation of arbutin was increased by the addition enhancers to essence when compared to control essence; the highest penetration was obtained by 5% of PG. However, the addition of enhancers decreased the penetration of arbutin when added to O/W and W/O emulsions. Beyond it was found that Tween20 content increased arbutin penetration when compared to control essence and increased with increasing Tween20 concentration. The above results indicate that the correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role on the percutaneous absorption of the cosmetic ingredient.
