具抗氧化活性物質在化粧品配方之功能性及穩定性探討

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Title:	具抗氧化活性物質在化粧品配方之功能性及穩定性探討 Functional and stability assays of antioxidative ingredients in cosmetic formulations
Authors:	方敏淇 Min-Chi Fang
Contributors:	林清宮嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所
Keywords:	輔酶Q10 訶子五倍子紅薏仁高山茶抗氧化 Coenzyme Q10 Frustus chebulae Galla Chinensis
Date:	2007
Issue Date:	2008-12-03 11:18:17 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	目前化粧品研發方向，抗氧化物質添加已成為市場潮流，本研究目的是在探討抗氧化活性物質其抗氧化能力，並於化粧品生產、製造、運輸與保存期間，配方維持一定的抗氧化效果。為了模擬抗氧化可能面臨的環境，以50℃烘箱及UV照射虐待性實驗，運用四種抗氧化測試 DPPH、TEAC、超微弱化學冷光自由基測定以及pUC 119DNA電泳分析，測試輔酶Q10(Coenzyme Q10)、訶子、五倍子、紅薏仁及高山茶等物質之抗氧化能力。在抗氧化生物活性作用部分，結果顯示經八週50℃烘箱測試，五倍子一直維持最佳的抗氧化能力，其高山茶及維生素C八週後抗氧化力快速下降。在超微弱化學冷光測定結果顯示，在清除OH自由基方面，高山茶於八週後清除效果變差，SC50下降15倍，與DPPH及TEAC試驗結果相符；並以pUC119 DNA電泳分析，驗證Q10對DNA具有保護效果，並將五倍子加入Q10中，觀察對DNA保護力。經由抗氧化測試後，證實其五倍子及訶子可幫助減緩維生素C抗氧化黃變效果，並將高山茶以複合方式測試抗氧化加成效果，最後將實驗結果運用於配方中，評估抗氧化活性物質之安定性。本研究可於配方研發初期評估抗氧化原料之有效性，使抗氧化物質在化粧品配方中有效應用及添加，讓抗氧化成分更穩定，並延緩抗氧化效能。 The trend of the development of cosmetics in the market is adding in anti-Oxidants. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the performance of the anti-Oxidants and whether the anti-oxidant effect can be kept during the process of being manufacturing, transporting and reserving. To simulate the environments which the anti-oxidants might encounter, we tested the performance of substances such as Coenzyme Q10, Frustus chebulae, Galla Chinensis, Semen Coicis and Tea leaf, DPPH, TEAC, Free radical analyzer and pUC119 DNA with four kinds of anti-oxidant tests with conditioning oven and UV light experiments. In the aspect of the biological activity of anti-oxidants, the results show that Galla Chinensis keeps the best anti-oxidant effect, the anti-oxidant effects of Tea leaf and vitamin C declines rapidly after 8 weeks of conditioning oven tests at 50℃. The result of Ultra-Weak Chemiluminescence test show that the SC50 of Tea levies is 15 times lower than the results in clearness which is corresponding to the test results of DPPH and TEAC after 8 weeks. The results with pUC119 DNA agarose gel electrophoresis and found that add some Galla Chinensis with pure Q10 substance has a better DNA protecting effect. We verified that the effects of Galla Chinensis and Frustus chebulae can help vitamin C with preventing Anti-yellowing process after being tested with anti-oxidant tests. We tested the anti-oxidant effects of tea leaf with compound methods and apply the test results in the formulations to evaluate the stability of anti-oxidant substances. This study can evaluate the performance of anti-oxidants in the early stage of cosmetic formulation development to make anti-oxidants more stable and to extend its anti-oxidant effects.
Relation:	校內一年後公開，校外永不公開
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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