愛美是每個人的天性，追求皮膚美白更是東方消費者對化粧品弁鈳怜禰貌滬n求項目之一。做為抗壞血症的維生素C被發現能抑制皮膚中麥拉寧色素細胞對黑色素之生合成，因此維生素C廣泛的被使用於化粧品中當成美白成份。由於維生素C容易氧化不穩定，釵h維生素C的衍生物亦被開發成為化粧品美白原料，其中維生素C葡萄糖(Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside,簡稱AA2G)係由維生素C與葡萄糖結合而成，被認為是穩定性高、安全無慮的化粧品美白原料之一。
本研究目的為開發一個方便、環保、準確的高效液相層析法，研究檢測維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖之置放安定性，並研究其經皮滲透量與滲透速率，藉以評估化粧品配方含維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖做為美白成分時，配方開發研究之參考。
實驗以高效液相層儀分析法進行偵測，結果顯示，以Partisil 10 SAX-250層析管柱配合移動相0.01 M磷酸二氫鉀水溶液，可以成奶擢鱁輕肵錕與維生素C葡萄糖，其維生素C滯留時間為10.4分鐘，維生素C葡萄糖滯留時間為7.3分鐘。在維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖混合溶液置放安定性測驗中，發現隨儲存時間越久，維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖含量皆逐漸下降，維生素C含量下降速度比維生素C葡萄糖還快釵h。數值證明維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖混合溶液比維生素C與維生素C葡萄糖個別單獨溶液更加穩定。在經皮滲透實驗中，經皮滲透速率於第一小時最高，對豬腸衣第一小時滲透速率而言，維生素C是0.33 mg/cm3˙hr，維生素C葡萄糖是0.33 mg/ cm3˙hr，兩者滲透速率相同；對豬皮第一小時滲透速率而言，維生素C是1.01 mg/ cm3˙hr，維生素C葡萄糖是0.22 mg/ cm3˙hr。實驗結果顯示，豬腸衣與豬皮之經皮滲透速率，隨滲透時間而降低，而豬腸衣之滲透速率比豬皮之滲透速率還高，說明豬皮比豬腸衣有較大的滲透屏障性。 Seeking beauty is the nature of all humans and pursuing the whitening of skin is the basic requirement of eastern customers who uses cosmetics. Vitamin C is reported as the ingredient for not only inhibiting septicemia but also inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in skin. Therefore, vitamin C is widely used in cosmetics as whitening ingredients. Because the instability and fast oxidation of vitamin C, some derivatives of vitamin C are developed as raw materials of whitening cosmetics. Ascorbic acid 2- glucoside (AA2G) is one of Vitamin C derivatives, which is consisted of vitamin C and glucose and considered as a new type raw material with stable and safety for whitening cosmetics.
The purpose of this study is to develop a method of high-performance liquid chromatography conveniently, environmental friendly and accurately, to test the placement stability of vitamin C and ascorbic acid 2 glucoside and to research the study of percutaneous penetration and infiltration rate. The result will assess and develop the formula of cosmetics containing vitamin C and ascorbic acid 2-glucoside as whitening ingredients.
