維他命C及其衍生物廣泛地被使用在化妝品中, 但是由於皮膚障壁弁?這些有效成分是否能經皮吸收是一個重要的課題。本實驗在探討維生素C醣苷及維生素C棕櫚酸酯在不同配方中經皮吸收的差異，包括油在水中型、水在油中型乳液、微脂粒及精華液，並且更進一步的比較加入不同比例的丙二醇、1,3丁二醇及甘油等促進劑的經皮吸收。本研究利用動態式擴散槽系統來評估活性成分穿過豬皮的經皮吸收，並利用貼布剝除法來評估角質層內的含量。本實驗結果顯示，添加10%1,3丁二醇的維生素C醣苷精華液滲透值比未添加促進劑增加了8.6倍。維生素C醣苷在微脂粒載體的經皮滲透效果最好，其次是精華液，再其次是乳液。維生素C棕櫚酸脂的實驗顯示水在油中型乳液的經皮滲透值高於油在水中型乳液，然而添加了促進劑反而減少了維生素C棕櫚酸脂經皮滲透。因此，選擇正確合適的配方在化妝品的經皮吸收上扮演很重要的角色。 Ascorbic acid and its derivatives have been widely used in cosmetics. However, because of the barrier function of skin, the investigation of pecutaneous absorption of the active ingredient is an important issue. The study was to compare the percutaneous absorption of ascorbyl of various formulations containing glucoside (AA2G) and ascorbyl palmitate (AP), including o/w, w/o emulsions, liposome, and essence. The effects of different enhancers addition including Propylene glycol (PG), 1.3-Butylene glycol (1,3BG), and glycerin were also studied. The percutaneous penetration of active ingredient was evaluated using a flow-through diffusion cell system and pig skin. The tape stripping method was also used for the evalution of active ingredient residue on stratum corneum. The results showed that penetration values of AA2G essence with 10% 1,3BG increased 8.6-fold compared with control essence. The best vehicle for penetration into the skin was liposome.The study for AP skin penetration showed that w/o emulsion has higher penetration effect than o/w emulsions. The addition of enhancers decreased the penetration rates. In conclusion, the chosen vehicle can enhance or reduce the trandsdermal delivery of both tested vitamin C derivatives. The correct selection of a suitable formulation plays an important role on the pecutaneous absorption of the cosmetic ingredient.
