| 摘要: | 染髮現今已非常普遍，就像化妝與服飾搭配一樣自然，而且研究各種有添加植物萃取染髮劑來遮誚晡瑰Y髮，可讓秀髮更自然、健康。本研究目的在探討減少染髮劑中PPD(p-Phenylenediamine)、PTD (p-Toluene diamine)及ammonia含量並在配方中添加植物萃取液來增加頭髮顏色之變化性並減少染後髮質之傷害。
根據蒐集之資料發現目前國內外市售染髮劑的配方中PPD、PTD及ammonia含量隨著染後所呈現髮色之深淺變化而隨之改變。因此實驗過程中將以常見的植物蘇木(Caesalpinia sappan L)、黑地榆(Sanguisorba officinalis L)、紫蘇葉(Perilla frutescens L)、D原料、五倍子(Galla Rhois)、紫草(Lithospermum erythrorhizon SIEB. Et ZUCC)等等多種植物作為研究基礎，針對產品配方調整pH值並減少PTD、PPD、ammonia含量，在白髮上進行染色來探討有添加植物性染劑在染後髮色之變化及對頭髮所造成的物理性質改變。結果顯示添加植物萃取液染髮劑配方中pH 6 ~7.5，以0.5% PTD 及 D原料，可呈現出黑褐色很好的染色效果，經沖洗後染色的附著性也最佳。而染後對頭髮物理性質的影響，有含植物萃取液染髮劑也比市售染髮劑較小，將這些受損頭髮進行修護以5% OMC、5% 角蛋白能成它a預防纖維損壞進而達到保護的效果。梳理性以維生素B5可減少頭髮糾結的狀況，而降低梳髮的力量。
最後將實驗配方實際運用在人體試驗，結果顯示無添加PPD、ammonia配方下，D原料染劑可達到很好的染色效果因此在染髮領域有商業上的開發價值。
Hair dying, as natural as wearing appropriate cosmetics with costume and accessories, has been very common these days. Various hair dyes including staff extracted from herbal to hide grey hair made people’s hair more natural and healthy. In order to increase the hair color preference and decrease the harm to hair after dying, this paper was to study not only how to decrease the amount of PPD (p-Phenylenediamine), PTD (p-Toluene diamine), and ammonia is in hair dye, but also how to add in formula herbal extraction.
It was learned in some information that with the change of hair color after dying, the amount of PPD, PTD and ammonia in common hair dye will change. In the experiment, after the pH value was adjusted and the quantity of PTD, PPD, and ammonia in the formula was decreased, grey hair was dyed to study the change of dyed hair color and physical nature, the common herbal such as Caesalpinia sappan L, Sanguisorba officinalis L, Perilla frutescens L, D raw material, Galla Rhois, and Lithospermum erythrorhizon SIEB. Et ZUCC…etc. played the basic role. When the hair dye included herbal extractions with pH 6 ~7.5 and 0.5% PTD plus3.5% D raw material, it performed best on black color and adherence. The hair dye with herbal extractions had less impact on the physical nature of dyed hair than commercial hair dyes. To protect the injured hair from fiber destruction, 5% OMC, and 5% keratin were used. Moreover, in terms of combing force, D-panthenol helped hair prevent to be entangled.
Finally, the formula was tested on a volunteer in vivo. Without PPD and ammonia, the hair dye with D raw material performed well on dying. As a result, it would be valuable in commerce. |
