防曬成份應用模式之建立

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Title:	防曬成份應用模式之建立 A study on the application of sunscreen's model
Authors:	陳宇信 Yu-Hsin Chen
Contributors:	洪偉章嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所
Keywords:	紫外線輻射太陽防護係數防曬劑 ultraviolet radiation sun protection factor sunscreen
Date:	2007
Issue Date:	2008-12-03 11:15:20 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	在過去20年中，每年平流層的臭氧含量平均遞減約1%，且遞減速度持續增加。研究顯示，臭氧含量平均減少1%相對於到達地面的紫外線含量約增加2%，使得各種皮膚病變的發生案例迅速提昇。日前世界各國衛生單位和學術組織也一再呼籲增加對紫外線防護措施及防曬產品使用，來降低曝曬紫外線產生的危害風險，因此高防曬係數的產品在市場上的需求日益提昇，但在製造商為追求高防曬效能，時常添加過多無效益的防曬含量，導致使用防曬產品後皮膚過敏問題增加。本研究為尋求少防曬含量使用而有較佳防曬效能為研究目標。方法為劑型選擇，油脂篩選及不同防曬成份間加成作用探討，減少防曬成份無效益添加，以達防曬劑用量少而防曬效能較佳之目的。研究共探討了33種W/O劑型配方及4種O/W劑型配方，其結果顯示以W/O乳化劑型為基劑，有防曬效能極大化的特色。而油脂篩選方面，應選用和防曬成份結構相似者，可提高基劑與防曬成份的相容及分散性。另在油表面處理無機粉體的選用，可選擇經Silica表面處理或Hydrogenated polyisobutene、Hydrogenated castor oilmonohydroxystearate及Polyoxypropylene cetyl ether phosphat表面處理粉體使用，例如：Eusolex T-AVO® 及COVASCREEN TI，以降低粉體與配方成份凝集降低整體防曬效能，且在無機粉體選用添加TiO2比ZnO有較高的效能表現。結果亦顯示在2組Octinaxate配方中，隨Octinaxate含量增加，SPF值也呈線性上升(其線性相關係數分別為r = 0.9797和r = 0.9850)，此可作為產品開發時，預估SPF值的依據。本研究也使用67.2W/m²紫外燈曝曬，做紫外線防護能力持續性研究，得知產品持續曝曬24小時防曬效能並無衰退現象。本研究主要的貢獻為使用低防曬成份，呈現高防曬係數，以降低成本，及減少成份對皮膚所產生的刺激。 In the past 20 years, the ozone of stratospheric’s content decrease progressively 1% each year, and the rate of decrease is increasing continuously. The research shows that a 2% increase in ultraviolet due to a 1% decrease ozone, carry the different skin diseases. The hygiene and academic organization of countries appealed repeatedly to use sunscreens for reducing risk by the ultraviolet exposure, that the high effective sunscreens are rising day by day on the market. However, in order to get the high effectiveness of sunscreen, the manufacturer often adds too much dosage, that is easy to cause skin allergic problems. The study target is to seek for the better effectiveness of sunscreen which is based on lower sunscreens. The study method is to screen the form of emulsions, the oil, and to study different sunscreens’ interaction by reducing the amount of feckless sunscreen to reach better effectiveness of sunscreens . The formula includes 33 kinds of W/O sunscreens and 4 kinds of O/W sunscreens in the study, and the result shows that W/O emulsifier type has better effectiveness of sunscreens. For selecting the oil, the similar chemical structures with sunscreens which can improve the compatibility and dispersedness of sunscreens. On the other hand, the inorganic powder select coating with the oil surface modified by silica or hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated castor oilmonohydroxystearate and polyoxypropylene cetyl ether phosphate. For example: Eusolex T-AVO®and COVASCREEN TI, they can reduce powder agglutinately with formula’s base to decrease effectiveness of sunscreens, and obtain more efficiency by use TiO2 than ZnO . The study also shows that Octinaxate increases as the SPF value risen linearly (its linear coefficient correlation r =0.9797 and r =0.9850 respectively). The result offers the estimation of SPF value when the product produces. The research also study the stable of sunscreens by exposing ultraviolet of 67.2W/m² for 24 hours, and the result shows that the effectiveness of sunscreen is not decrease. The main contribution of the research is not only using lower sunscreens to get higher SPF value, but also redusing costs and irritation on human skin.
Relation:	校內校外均不公開
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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