| 摘要: | 本篇論文主要是開發果酸護膚產品，由於它具有特殊的物性性質以及良好的經皮吸收的特性，所以近十年來果酸在化粧品中的成長是快速的，而且是護膚產品中最普遍被添加的有效性成份。然而果酸是一種弱酸，它很容易影響護膚產品的有效性及穩定性，因此想得到最好的乳化條件，優質的觸感與塗抹性好的產品，就有必要選擇適當的組成份配方及對果酸物性性質的了解。眾所周知，化粧品產品的發展總是新產品不斷地取代舊產品，所以我們進行配方時也必需以最快的速度提早了解產品的穩定性問題，以便取得產品迅速上市的先機。
本研究探討了不同的界面活性劑和組成成份對果酸產品的影響，我們也以各種不同乳化過程來進行果酸產品的製備，並以不同的儀器及加速老化的方法來測定果酸乳化製品隨著時間的變化之各項物性性質，如粒徑分佈、安定性、導電度、pH值和流變性等，做為評估得到最佳配方的基準。從以上實驗結果及測定我們得到兩個最佳的配方，一個是5%果酸乳霜(黏度為58000cps)配方其組成是Brij(72) 3%；Brij(721) 2%；Glycolic acid 5%；Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2%； Stearic acid 1%；Cetyl alcohol 1%；Squalane 3%；Mineral oil 5%；GermabenII 0.8%；Propylene glycol 5%；Triethanolamine 5%；Veegum 0.3%；and water to 100%，產品pH值為3.64 。另一個是5%果酸乳液(黏度為42000cps)配方由Brij(72) 2%, Brij(721) 2%,其餘基劑組成均與Brij(72)3%/ Brij(721)2%組成系統相同，產品pH值為3.55。
The purpose of this study is to investigate the development of the skin care emulsions containing alpha hydroxyl acids( AHAs).The growth of AHA component use in cosmetics has been rapid and in the last 10 years, AHAs have become among the most popular ingredients in skin care pro- ducts thanks to its physicochemical character and percutaneou absorption
property. However, when AHA, a weak acidic substance, is incorporated into a system which appears homogeneous, the obtained AHA emul- sions may be unstable.
This instability can result in the decrease in efficacy and shelf -life of
active cosmetic products. Therefore, the selection of suitable composition is required for optimizing the AHA formulation, and the knowledge of the physicochemical properties of such formulations is essential to optimize manufacturing conditions, provide cosmetic elegance and to increase the ease of application on skin. It is well known that cosmetic formulations are always in the “ups and downs” of various trends. For this reason, accelerated storage testing is needed for the prediction of the long term physical stability of the formulation as well as the change of consistency with time.
This study discusses the effect of different emulsifiers and composi-
tions on the AHA formulation, and various emulsification processes are used for performing the preparation of the AHA formulation. In order to realize the physicochemical properties of such formulations, emulsions properties such as droplet size, stability, conductivity changes﹐pH and rheological behavior with time, are measured by using the various instru- ments. According to the results obtained from the above measured, the two optimum formulations are achieved; their formulation compositions are as follows: one is for AHA cream (η=58000 cps) consist of Brij (72) 3%, Brij (721) 2%, Glycolic acid 5% , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2%, Stearic acid 1%, Cetyl alcohol 1%, Squalane 3%, Mineral oil 5%, Germaben II 0.8%, Veegum 0.3%,Propylene glycol 5%, Triethanolamine 5%, and water to 100% , pH=3.64; the other is for AHA lotion (η=42000 cps) consist of Brij (72) 2%, Brij (721) 2%, Glycolic acid 5% , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2%, Stearic acid 1%, Cetyl alcohol 1%, Squalane 3%, Mineral oil 5%, Germaben II 0.8%, Veegum 0.3%, Propylene glycol 5%, Triethanolamine 5%, and water to 100 %, pH=3.55. |
