防曬成份在乳化化粧品之效能探討

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Title:	防曬成份在乳化化粧品之效能探討 A study on the efficacy of sunscreens in emulsion cosmetics
Authors:	蘇恒璋 Hang-jang Su
Contributors:	洪偉章嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所
Keywords:	防曬二氧化鈦紫外線防曬係數 Octinaxate Ensulizole sunscreen titanium dioxide ultraviolet radiation sun protection factor butyl methylbenzylidenemethane
Date:	2006
Issue Date:	2008-11-24 14:04:01 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	溫室效應使得臭氧層正以平均每年0.26%的速率減少中，達到地表的UV量及強度均比過去增加，因而使得皮膚更容易產生黑化、光老化及增加皮膚病變的發生率。同時國人發生接觸性過敏的原因中，有18.1％是由於使用防曬劑後所造成的不適。故如何減少防曬劑用量，又能增加防曬效能，減少人類暴露在紫外線增強的風險中，為本研究探討目的。　　本研究在建立一套高效能防曬配方的調配系統模式，即同時兼具有高SPF值及UVA防護力，而又能減少配方中防曬成份的使用量之研究。　　實驗分為兩部份，第一部份係針對巿售防曬產品進行防曬效能之檢測。第二部份則將不同防曬成份添加入不同型態的乳化(W/O，O/W)配方中，以找出使用少量防曬成份而達到高防護力的配方組成。　　本研究共檢測了巿售防曬產品74件，調製82件不同防曬組成的乳化配方。依據實驗結果顯示，有70 %的巿售產品實際測試之SPF值比其標示SPF值低，另從其標示的活性成份比例組合得知，有釵h防曬成份為無效益添加。從第二部份探討可歸納出不同種類防曬的組合，可具有協同也可能具有相互干擾。依實驗結果得到最佳的配方組合，即W/O型態之乳化防曬配方中，油相中併用Octinaxate、Butyl Methylbenzylidenemethane，水相中併用TiO2及Ensulizole，總量只須12.5%，即可達到SPF30，值量比3以上之高效能，而達到最少防曬劑使用量及最佳保護效能的目的。依本研究結果可建立一套提高SPF及UVA保護力，及避免無效益添加防曬劑的調配模式。　　以本研究為基礎，可發揮不同防曬成分間的加成作用，具有防曬劑用量少，而防曬效能極大化的特色。此系統模式，無須特別技術或使用昂貴之新防曬成分，即可大量生產高效能的防曬產品，能提供給產業界作為生產高效能防曬產品，有效添加成份以提升防護力的參考依據，以幫助其減少生產成本達到化粧品產業及使用者雙贏的結果。 Due to the greenhouse effect, the ozone layer has been decreas- ing at the rate of 0.26% each year, and the quantity and intensity of UV that reaches the surface have increased, resulting in that human skin becomes more subject to melanism, photoaging, and pathologi- cal changes. However, it is found that 18.1% of the incidences of co- ntact allergy are resulted from the use of sunscreen products. There- fore, increasing the effectiveness of sunscreen products while decr- eesing the amount of usage to lower the risk of humans’ exposure to greater UV will be the objective of this research. 　　This research aims at establishing a systematic model to formu- late a highly effective sunscreen formula, which exhibits high SPF value and UV protection and uses low sunscreen ingredients. The experiment was divided into two parts. In the first part, the efficacy of existing sunscreen products in the market was tested, and in the second part, different sunscreen ingredients were added into different forms of emulsions (W/O, O/W) so as to find out a formula that consists of low amount of sunscreen ingredients but with high protection. 　　In this research, 74 existing sunscreen products have been tested and 82 different emulsion formulas have been made. According to the finding of experiments, 70% of existing products showed lower SPF value in actual tests than they are labeled. In addition, it is fou- nd from the proportion of their active ingredients that many sunscr- een ingredients are ineffective. It can be induced that, the combi- nation of different types of sunscreen ingredients may result in syn- ergy effect, but interference is also possible. The preferred formula is the W/O type of emulsion, in which the oil phase is consisted of Octinaxate and Butyl Methylbenzylidenemethane and the water pha- se is consisted of TiO2 and Ensulizole. 12.5% of the total amount of these ingredients is enough to reach SPF 30, which achieves the obj- ective of lowering the amount of usage while maintaining the best protection of sunscreen products. The formula established from the finding of this research can improve actual SPF value and UVA pro- tection and avoid adding ineffective ingredients. 　　Based on this research, synergy effect among different sunscr- een ingredients can be taken into full play, minimizing the amount of usage while maximizing the effectiveness. The systematic model of this research can be provided to the industry as a reference of how to add in ingredients effectively when producing highly protective sun- screen products so that protection can be increased and production cost can be decreased, creating a win-win situation for both cosme- tics industry and users.
Relation:	校內一年後公開，校外永不公開
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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