| 摘要: | 隨著化粧品原料的日新月異，消費者希望得到的是具有幼藺吤B安全的產品。因此；必須建立更謹慎快速的評估方法，在過去都以動物活體實驗為最常使用的方式，但卻有違背人道與實驗操作不便方面的考量。
皮膚細胞的體外培養(in vitro)技術，目前已被廣泛的應用在化粧品相關研究上。這些培養技術的發展包括︰用於抗皮膚衰老（anti-aging）、美白（whitening）及保濕（hydration）等多種有效性評估方式，此等方式已成為化妝品基礎研究中不可或缺之工具。
人類纖維母細胞(human fibroblastic cell)是真皮層（dermis）之主要細胞，在本研究中，我們則利用此類細胞來印證HA之幼臚峔銗L輔助性利益。玻尿酸(Hyaluronic acid, HA)為天然高分子生醫材料，在生理上扮演著特定的弁遄A且具有特殊生物學上的活性，像是無毒性、低免疫回應性、高生物相容性、生物可分解以及人體可吸收性等，也為化粧品中經常使用的保濕性原料。HA為本實驗中化粧品成份的主軸，並選用化妝品成份中對皮膚較具刺激性原料，進一步探討HA是否能降低其他化粧品原料對皮膚之刺激性，並建立細胞模式來評估HA與皮膚幼藺岋鰜Y及配方應用上之數據化探討。
在本實驗中，在細胞試驗中利用MTT 測試所得到的結果中，顯示：(一)玻尿酸在1 mg/ml、3 mg/ml、5 mg/ml、7 mg/ml、9 mg/ml之濃度下能提升人類纖維母細胞在乾燥環境影響下之細胞存活率，也證實了HA其特殊之保濕能力；（二）0.7 mg/ml、0.96 mg/ml、1.24 mg/ml、1.5 mg/ml之HA濃度能夠促進細胞之生長；（三）HA在0.7 mg/ml 、3 mg/ml、7 mg/ml、9 mg/ml能夠減少蛋白酶對細胞之傷害；（四）HA的濃度在0.5 mg/ml、1.5 mg/ml、2.5 mg/ml、3.5 mg/ml、4.5 mg/ml時，可減少2.5 mg/ml 之甘醇酸對細胞之傷害，且減少了甘醇酸對皮膚所產生的刺激性反應及脫屑現象；（五）細胞存活率可藉由3.5 mg/ml-4.5 mg/ml的HA濃度的添加降低防腐劑對細胞的傷害，提高了20%之細胞存活率。
因此，藉由玻尿酸的加入確實能夠提升細胞對具有刺激性之化粧品原料的耐受性，且在人體的試驗上也顯示了玻尿酸的特殊保濕能力，並且能夠降低化粧品原料對皮膚的刺激性。
As the creation of new cosmetic raw material is progressing rapidly nowadays. The irritancy, toxicity and alteration have to be evaluated more carefully. In the past, animal test has been the most popular method used, but the experimental inconvenience and animal cruelty issue are still a concern.
Now, the technology of in-vitro growth of dermis cell has been widely applied in the research of cosmetic products. These techniques have been used in anti-aging, whitening and hydration. Skin care product for evaluation of effectiveness, and become the most important tool for basic research in the cosmetic product development.
Human fibroblastic cells are the main cells of skin and we used this cell to demonstrate the effectiveness and other auxiliary benefits. In the experiments, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been chosen as the main component of the cosmetic material. HA plays unique functions on physiological environment. Being natural high molecular biomedical material HA is non-toxic, low to immune reactivity, high biological compatibility, biodegradable and adsorption by human body. It is also used as moisture preservation agent in cosmetics. Further to understand whether HA can lower the irritancy of skin caused by other cosmetic raw materials.
In this thesis, we obtained a lot of results from a cellular model by using MTT methodology：(1) HA could prevent the fibroblastic cell from dryness at concentrations 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 mg/ml. (2) HA could promote cell proliferation at concentrations 0.7, 0.96, 1.24, and 1.5 mg/ml. (3) HA could reduce protease triggered cell damage at concentrations 0.7, 3, 7,and 9 mg/ml. (4) HA could prevent cell death induced by AHA . (5) HA could reduce the irritation induced by preservative at concentrations 3.5 -4.5 mg/ml.
In conclusion, HA when added into a cosmetic formulation could significantly reduced the risk of skin irritation, and provide a hydration holding film on the skin. |
