| 摘要: | 化粧品一般以加速老化測試方法作為保存期限的依據，確保化粧品在櫃上的架儲期，但目前所使用的方法費時過長，且缺乏完整之量化評估篩選系統，故本研究在於建立一套乳化化粧品安定性系統的篩選模式。
本研究中所使用的方法，即將十種市售乳化產品及一種實驗室研製之乳化產品，經以加速產品老化的方法，其方法選用以高低溫度循環(50℃g0℃g37℃)方式，與連續紫外線照射(7.54x106J/m²g52.78x106J/m²) 等老化環境條件，分別於老化一天與七天後，藉由測其老化前後之色澤、粒徑分佈大小、流變性及其他物理與化學特性結果，取得快速判斷安定性的量化依據，建立一套乳化產品的安定性篩選系統。
研究結果顯示，此安定性評估系統，能快速在一天的篩選流程中，由觀察物理與化學特性結果，得到兩種乳化安定較佳的產品，與四種產生相分離的乳化產品，並藉由比較這兩者間老化前後的差異，可得到四個判斷乳化安定性的量化結果，顯示如下：
(1) 當粒徑分佈變化維持10µm以下，代表乳化產品能得到較高的安定性，(2)當乳化上層與下層粒徑差異約在10μm以上，乳化產品均出現上層粒徑大於下層粒徑的不安定現象，顯示分散相比重較小的乳滴會有上浮傾向，(3)當乳化上層與下層油水比例差異約在4%以上，乳化產品均出現下層的水含量明顯大於上層的不安定現象，顯示O/W型的不安定現象會造成分散相上浮的傾向，可能導致相分離情況產生，(4)當老化前後pH值差異約在0.5以上，可能伴隨著乳化粒徑趨大及黏度降黏等不安定現象發生。
建立乳化篩選的評估系統，能夠在一天內判定產品是否須進行完整的安定性測試流程，以應付大量產品的開發需求，節省安定性評估時間，且給予乳化產品確效上的保障，以提高競爭力，另由乳化安定性的量化結果，可提供化粧品工業界在檢測乳化產品時重要判斷的依據。
Cosmetics usually are in accordance with preserve terms by accelerate-aging test method to insure the shelf-lives of the cosmetics, The method used not only takes a lot of time but also lacks of complete quantification of system, so this research studies on the stability of emulsion cosmetic.
This research choose ten kinds of emulsion products and one kind of emulsion product developed from laboratory through the accelerate-aging method that the temperature circulation method(50℃→0℃→37℃) and strengthen (7.54x106J/m²→52.78x106J/m²) with the continuous ultraviolet ray under two different aging environment conditions, observing for one day and seven day respectively. By measuring the color、particle distribution size、rheology and other physics and chemical characteristic, Set up a set of assessment systems that can obtain speedily recognizable stability of quantification of system.
The study shows that this method can get two kinds of better emulsion products and four kinds of products which cause phase separation by observing physics and chemical characteristic in one day, and receive four conclusions appraising the stability of emulsion by comparing the difference before and after aging, It shows as follows:
(1)When the particle distribution variation keep under 10µm, representing the emulsion products can get higher stability, (2)When the particle size difference between upper and lower layer is larger than 10µm, the unstable emulsion products appear upper particle distribution is greater than the lower, The result shows the droplet which have smaller density of dispersion phase will float up, (3)When the oil-water ratio difference between upper and lower layer are more than 4%, the water content of upper layer of unstable emulsion products will greater than lower, The result shows the unstable phenomenon of the O/W type will cause phase separation, It may result in separating the phase, (4)pH value difference above 0.5 before and after aging may cause unstable phenomenon that emulsion particle become larger and viscosity become lower.
Set up a set of assessment systems can judge within one day whether the products must carry on the stability test procedure in order to deal with the development of a large number of products, economize the stable evaluation time, and offer emulsion products guarantee for improving competitiveness, From the result of stability of emulsion products can also offer the important basis judgment while measuring the emulsion products of cosmetics industry. |
