當今全球化粧品與美容相關市場高達2仟億美元，且該產業並以每年7%速度成長，超越世界GDP成長率的兩倍之多。化粧品市場之成長主要來自產品功效之提昇，而整體護膚功效分析，與護膚產品相關的基本功能有七項，依序分別為抗老、保濕、去角質、潔膚、消炎、美白、防曬等。利用中草藥理論記載完整的先天優勢以及現代科技的反覆驗證，使中國傳統醫學與現代美容科技整合，正為全球人類所接受。漢方化粧品可說是連接傳統簡單清潔及美化的化粧品與使用於特定治療藥效之藥物之間缺口的橋樑。隨著天然物應用於化粧品之熱潮而起的是相關法規制定與衍生之管理問題，許多產品標榜天然素材的添加，使消費者以為「天然的」就是安全及有效的，但是事實不然，有些天然物對皮膚會產生刺激性，若沒有詳加規範會產生糾紛及傷害。因此本計畫希望透過資料蒐集、研究了解中藥材添加於化粧品之安全性及有效性，以提供相關單位建立管理規範的參考。本計畫擬分成六個子項目： 1. 資料蒐集-蒐集內容包括A.醫藥品十大先進國之中草藥可添加於化粧品之品項；B.國外對於天然物添加於化粧品之管理規範；C. 典籍文獻記載之中藥材應用於化粧品之資料。 2. 中藥材萃取-依據各方資料所歸納之中藥材，經過基原鑑定後，進行萃取工作。 3. 有效性評估-建立化粧品功效篩選與評估平台，進行in vitro 及in vivo有效性評估測試，確認中藥材添加於化粧品之有效劑量，測試項目包含：美白、防曬、保濕、抗老化、抗氧化及抗菌等功效。 4. 安全性評估-化粧保養品的使用需直接接觸皮膚，因此評估其對皮膚的安全性與刺激性是很重要的。本計畫擬檢測中草藥萃取物對皮膚是否具毒性，因此在in vivo方面擬以裸鼠或其他動物進行實驗，另外也以皮膚體外刺激試驗測試中藥材萃取物之安全與刺激性反應。 5. 管理辦法擬定-召開專家會議，根據本計畫之安全性及有效性評估測試，及國外相關管理經驗，擬定中藥材添加於化粧品之管理方案，作為管理單位之重要參考資料。 6. 資訊網站-建立中藥材添加化粧品諮詢網站，提供產、官、學、研各界在各國法規及相關研究成果之查詢與資訊交流網站。本校以藥學起家，且為全國首先設立的化粧品專門科系，成立至今十餘年，更於92年度獲准設立全國第一所化粧品科技研究所，研發人才與設備齊全。並且累積了多年中藥材添加於化粧品之研發經驗，本次希望透過計畫執行，將中藥材應用於化粧品進行完整周密的整理與研究，期能使研發單位善加利用中藥資源，開發具本土特色之產品，促使台灣本土品牌的化粧品能夠在世界上佔有一席之地，同時也使化粧品管理機關能更有效率地管理相關的產業。 The global cosmetic market was estimated up to 200 billions US dollars, and was growing up at a rate of 7% per year. It was two times of the GDP growing rate. The major products among the cosmetic martets are antiaging, skin moisturizer, dekeratinizer, cleanser, whitening and sunscreen. Since the additions of plant extracts into cosmetics are popular in Europe and America. In order to establish a competitive product, the goal of this proposal is focused on the application of Chinese herbs on cosmetics. The proposal was divided into six parts as followings: 1. Literature searches: Informations about the application of natural products will be surveyed from other countries and traditional Chinese documents. 2. Plant extraction: Putative herbs will be extracted. 3. Efficacy evaluation: The efficacy of herbal extracts on skin whitening, sunscreen, humectants, antiaging, antioxidant and bactericidal activities will be examed by in vitro and in vivo methods. 4. Safety examination: Irritency of the herbal extracts will be examined by animal tests or alternative methods. 5. Tentative regulatory rules. Taking together the experimental results and regulatory laws, the tentative regulatory rules will be 6. WWW web sites. The web sites of Chinese herbal cosmetic will be established. The Chia-Nan university was founded on the basis of pharmacy sciences. And the cosmetic department and institute were the first established departments. We are interested in the research of Chinese herbs application on cosmetics. These results will help the design of cosmetic formulation, and the efficacy evaluations of herbal cosmetics. These plans are proposed and will work together to establish a cosmetic technical support for the cooperation company and also for government.
