背景和目的 :
經皮穿透研究在藥學領域中，被用來評估藥物分子經皮穿透已有相當之時日。然而，在化妝保養品科學領域，對於美白成份經皮吸收方面卻無有系統之研究。本研究的目的是評估時常在化妝品中使用的美白成分經皮吸收之情況，並探討影響美白成分穿透之因素。此基本研究可顯示美白成份經皮吸收之機轉，並對化粧保養品配方之設計與研究有所助益。
方法：
運用體外經皮吸收模型〝 Side-By-Side Diffusion Model 〞，於相當人體體溫 37±1℃ 之循環水下，以裸鼠 (nude mice) 背部皮膚作為滲透障壁，並以高效能液相層析儀 (HPLC) 來分析化妝保養品中使用的美白成分熊果素(?Arbutin) 及維他命C磷酸鈉鹽 (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate) 穿透吸收之研究。在熊果素 (?Arbutin) 所使用之 HPLC 分析條件固定相為 reverse phase Inertsil 6 ODS-3 ， Size 為 4.6×150 mm 的管柱，移動相緩衝溶液為 0.05 M KH2PO4 緩衝溶液與甲醇 (90:10,v/v) 混合液，pH 值為 3.5，流速為 1 mL / min ， UV 偵測器設定為 280nm。另維他命C磷酸鈉鹽 (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate) 分析條件固定相為 reverse phase Inertsil 6 ODS-3 ， Size 為 4.6×150 mm 的管柱，移動相緩衝溶液為 0.005 M KH2PO4，pH 值為 3，流速為 0.5 mL / min， UV 偵測器設定為 240nm。
結果＆結論：
研究結果顯示，熊果素 (?Arbutin) 及維他命C磷酸鈉鹽 (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate) 美白成份，經過體外經皮吸收裝置穿透實驗結果，得知無穿透效果。此結果顯示，角質層 (stratum cormeum) 是穿透過程最大障礙；角質層 (stratum corneum) 去除，在增加穿透吸收方面是非常重要。本研究中藉由體外經皮吸收穿透模型之建立所得到經皮吸收之訊息可用以增進化粧保養品配方之設計與研究。 Background and Purpose :
The transdermal permeation subject has been studied in pharmaceutical field for years to assess transport of drug molecule. Nevertheless , there is no systematic research on the permeation of whitelight ingredients through skin in the field of cosmetic science. The purpose of this study is to evaluate transdermal permeation of whitelight ingredients which are often used in cosmetics and to investigate the factors which affect the permeation of whitelight ingredients. This basic study can be helpful to reveal the transdermal properties of whitelight ingredients ; the obtained information can also be utilized to design cosmetic formulations.
Methods :
Permeation studies of whitelight ingredients across nude mice skin was conducted using side-by-side diffusion cell at 37℃. High performance liquid chromatographic methods were developed for determination of ?Arbutin as well as Sodium ascorbyl phosphate. A reverse phase column was used as the stationary phase , whereas mixture of 0.05MKH2PO4 buffer solution (pH 3.5) and methanol (90:10,v/v) was used as mobile phase of ?Arbutin. The mobile phase of Sodium ascorbyl phosphate was 0.005MKH2PO4 buffer solution (pH 3). The UV detector was set at 280 nm for ?Arbutin and at 240 nm for Sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Results & Conclusions :
The results showed that the ?Arbutin and Sodium ascorbyl phosphate did not permeate through model skin effectively. After removal of stratum corneum (SC) , significant improvement of the permeability of ?Arbutin and Sodium ascorbyl phosphate were observed. The results indicated that SC is the major barrier for the permeation process. The studies of ?Arbutin and Sodium ascorbyl phosphate permeated through skin from various formulations provide further evidence for the proposed mechanism. The information can be utilized for designing optimum formulations for the whitelight ingredients.
