黃柏萃取物之化粧品配方穩定度探討研究

CNU IR > Pharmacy and Science > Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science > Dissertations and Theses > Item 310902800/34018

Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: https://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/34018

Title:	黃柏萃取物之化粧品配方穩定度探討研究 Determination of the stability of cosmetic formulations contain Phellodendron amurense Ruprecht extract 由於目前化粧品市場對天然物原料需求日益增加，因此基於對傳統中藥(Traditional Chinese Medicines，TCMs)功效的認知，以傳統中藥所含的物質作為原料來開發化粧品，已日益興盛，特別是在亞洲地區。然而，在開發產品配方時，中藥萃取的溶液內含的離子，會與化粧品產品內其它的成分有離子交互作用，這是開發上主要問題之一。黃柏(Phellodendron amurense Rupr.)為芸香科(Rutaceae)植物，中藥黃柏源自去除外皮的黃柏乾燥樹皮。本研究以中藥黃柏的萃取液來探討離子的影響。黃柏先以純水進行萃取，並進一步將萃取液冷凍乾燥、溶解及透析，將透析前及透析後的萃取液配製成1%、1.5%、2%、2.5%、3%濃度之溶液，比較透析前後的特性改變，包括重量、pH值、電導度、濁度、外觀、貼膚測試（手臂及面部）及沉澱程度。黃柏萃取液同時也分別配製凝膠及乳液兩種配方，並加入不同濃度之透析前後溶液，評估其配方的黏度、pH值、電導度、乳化粒徑及30天與60天的配方安定性。結果顯示，不同離子濃度直接的影響導電度改變。在30天及60天的安定性試驗中，沉澱試驗也顯示出經過透析和未經透析的溶液影響離子濃度而引起的凝集反應。初步貼布試驗結果顯示透析前後的黃柏萃取液，並不會引起皮膚和臉部的過敏反應，初步結果顯示黃柏萃取液對人體皮膚有相當程度的安全性。將萃取液加入凝膠後，黏度受到離子影響的情況相當明顯，特別是加入未經透析的萃取液，這時黏度會隨著濃度的上升而下降。這個現象同樣在乳液配方中可觀察到，但在同一濃度間的透析前後萃取液比較組內並無顯著差異。綜上所述，離子效應影響配方的特性，並改變產品的安定性，而本試驗中應用經透析的黃柏萃取液可以改善離子效應帶來的問題，使產品更加穩定。 In view of the increasing demand for natural materials in the cosmetics market, substances of Traditional Chinese Medicines (TCMs) have been developed and utilized in cosmetics due to the effective of TCMs, especially in Asia. However, ionic interaction between the extractions of TCMs and other ingredients in cosmetic products is one of major problems when developed the formulation. Phellodendron amurense Rupr., which is a kind of dried bark, belonged to Rutaceae. In this research, Phellodendron amurense Rupr. extract investigated the ionic interaction. The Phellodendron amurense Rupr. was extracted by pure water and then lyophilized for dialysis. 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, and 3% dialysis and non-dialysis solutions were used to evaluate feature changes, including weight, pH, conductivity, turbidity, appearance, patch test (arm and mask), and precipitation. Phellodendron amurense Rupr. extract also prepared gel and emulsion formulations with dialysis and non-dialysis solutions to evaluate viscosity, pH value, conductivity, droplet diameter for emulsion, 30 and 60 days stability of formula. The results indicate that the conductivity was directly affected by ionic concentration. The precipitation of dialysis or non-dialysis solutions in 30 and 60 days also exhibited the ionic concentration affected the aggregation of particles. Patch test shows no allergic effect after treat with the extraction with/without dialysis. It means the extraction has a certain safety in human skin. After added into gel formulation, the viscosity was significant affect by ion effective, especially in non-dialysis groups. It would decrease with increasing concentration. These symptoms also observed in emulsion formulation, but it has no significant different between dialysis and non-dialysis groups.In overall, ion interaction can affect the formulation characteristics, and change the products stability. Based on these results, apply Phellodendron amurense Rupr. extraction with dialysis in cosmetic products can avoid many problems and raise stability.
Authors:	莊孟凡
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系林清宮
Keywords:	黃柏透析離子效應化粧品 Phellodendron amurense Rupr dialysis ion effect cosmetic
Date:	2020
Issue Date:	2022-10-21 10:35:37 (UTC+8)
Relation:	學年度：108， 80頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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