天然物抗褐變能力在粧品應用之探討

CNU IR > Pharmacy and Science > Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science > Dissertations and Theses > Item 310902800/33964

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Title:	天然物抗褐變能力在粧品應用之探討 A Discussion on Natural Extracts as Anti-browning Agents in Cosmetics 防止化粧品褐變，是實務上的重大議題，然而過去鮮少有探討抑制化粧品褐化之相關研究，在現今追求環保自然的社會趨勢下，本研究冀盼能透過實驗，找到成本低廉且能有效抗褐變的天然植物原料。本研究以蝶豆(Clitoria ternatea Linn.)為實驗材料，透過酵素性褐變抑制試驗、梅納反應褐變抑制試驗，分別進行不同部位抗褐變能力測試。最後研究將抑制劑添加至含有牛蒡萃取液之產品中，放入60 ?C烘箱中進行虐待性試驗，以確認抑制劑在產品中的抑制褐化效果。結果顯示，大多數蝶豆萃取液具有抑制褐變能力，尤其複方萃取液1、複方萃取液2的抑制褐化能力不僅較單方顯著，在多數情況下其抗褐變效果甚至遠優於亞硫酸鈉。進一步將複方萃取液1(抑制劑編號18)添加至含牛蒡萃取液凝膠中，以測試其抗褐變能力，試驗結果發現，未添加抑制劑之凝膠產品在第11天即完全褐化變色，反觀添加抑制劑之凝膠則褐化不明顯，因此證實抑制劑對產品的褐化亦具有抑制效果。整體而言，蝶豆具有極佳的抑制褐變能力，某些部位之抗褐變能力甚至優於亞硫酸鹽，證實蝶豆可取代化學抑制劑，成為經濟有效的抑制化粧品褐變之天然原料。 Preventing cosmetics from browning is a major issue in practice. However, there were few studied on cosmetics browning in the past. The aim of this research was to find an effective and low-cost anti-browning raw material from nature plant through experiments. In this study, Clitoria ternatea was used as experimental materials, and the anti-browning ability of different parts was tested through the anti-enzymatic browning test and the anti-nonenzymatic browning test. The final stage of this experiment was to confirm the effect of inhibiting browning in products by adding the inhibitor into the product and conducting a stress testing. The results showed that most Clitoria ternatea extracts have the ability to inhibit browning, especially Combination extract 1 and Combination extract 2, which in most cases are even far better than sodium sulfite. The Combination extract 1(#18 inhibitor) was further added to the product containing burdock extract to test its anti-browning ability. The results found that the gel product without inhibitor was completely browned and discolored on the 11th day, but the gel with inhibitor added has no obvious browning, on the other hand. Therefore, it is confirmed that the inhibitor also has the ability to inhibit browning of products. On the whole, Clitoria ternatea has excellent browning inhibition ability, and the anti-browning ability of some parts is even better than sulfite. It is proved that Clitoria ternatea has the potential to replace chemical browning inhibitors and become a cost-effective natural raw material for inhibiting cosmetic browning.
Authors:	林瑜瑩
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系林朝賢
Keywords:	褐變抑制劑褐變蝶豆 browning Clitoria ternatea Linn. browning inhibitors
Date:	2020
Issue Date:	2022-10-21 10:32:18 (UTC+8)
Relation:	電子全文公開日期：2025-09-01 學年度：108， 72頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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