| 摘要: | 芳香植物（Aromatic plants）已有多年歷史，它具有香氣、藥用及調味的價值，其也含有天然抗氧化和抗菌成分，因此本研究利用芳香植物的多重特性，探討黃荊（Vitex negundo）、茵陳蒿（Artemisia capillaris）、七層塔（Ocimum gratissimum）、蘋果桉（Eucalyptus bridgesiana）、芳香萬壽菊（Tagetes lemmonii）是否可應用作為化粧品功能性原料。研究中將五種芳香植物之葉部，以物理降解處理法後，利用熱迴流進行水萃取，使用gelatin-based或hyaluronan-based zymography分析不同濃度之待測樣品是否具有抑制MMP-2（Matrix Metalloproteinase-2）、MMP-9（Matrix Metalloproteinase-9）及玻尿酸酶（Hyaluronidase）之活性，並利用紙錠瓊脂擴散法（Agar disc diffusion method）進行抑菌能力分析。根據研究結果得知，蘋果桉水萃物抑制MMP-2、MMP-9及玻尿酸酶（Hyaluronidase）效果顯著，其對於MMP-2及MMP-9的活性抑制率分別為94.2±2.7%及72.7±0.4%，於濃度0.1%時，仍具抑制玻尿酸酶（Hyaluronidase）的活性。抑菌能力以七層塔水萃物和蘋果桉水萃物較顯著，皆可抑制化粧品中不得檢驗出之菌株。
綜合上述，蘋果桉水萃物可降低MMPs的活性，保護膠原蛋白避免因老化所導致的基質金屬蛋白酶破壞，並可以降低玻尿酸酶活性，減緩肥大細胞釋放組織胺，達到延緩老化、減少皺紋產生及抗過敏等，加上蘋果桉水萃物的抗菌能力，可以添加於化粧品中作為抗老化、抗過敏之原料以及降低防腐劑使用量，因此蘋果桉水萃物不僅能夠應用於烹飪及醫學領域，未來在化粧品功能性原料領域的應用亦極具潛力。
Aromatic plants have been around for many years. These plants have has aroma, medicinal and flavoring properties, and also contain natural antioxidants and antibacterial ingredients. This research this study uses the multiple properties of aromatic plants, including Vitex negundo, Artemisia capillaris, Ocimum gratissimum, Eucalyptus bridgesiana and Tagetes lemmonii to explore whether these five plant extracts can be applied as the cosmetic functional ingredients the leaves of five aromatic plants after physical degradation. In this study, extraction was carried out by hot reflux method, and gelatin-based or hyaluronan-based zymography were was used to analyze whether the samples of different concentrations have the inhibitory effects on MMP-2, MMP-9 and hyaluronidases, as well as antibacterial assay was carried out by using the agar disc diffusion method.
According to the research results, the Eucalyptus bridgesiana extract showed significant suppression effects on MMP-2, MMP-9 and hyaluronidase. Its inhibition rates on MMP-2 and MMP-9 were 94.2±2.7% and 72.7±0.4%, respectively, and it inhibited the activities of hyaluronidases at the concentration of 0.1%. The extracts of Ocimum gratissimum and Eucalyptus bridgesiana exhibited the anti-bacterial activities and inhibited the growth of bacterial strains that cannot be detected in cosmetics.
In conclusion, the Eucalyptus bridgesiana extract could suppress the activities of matrix metalloproteinases, therefore. We speculated that it could protect collagen from the degradation of matrix metalloproteinases to de ay the wrinkle formation. In addition, this extract reduced the hyaluronidase activities, so we thought that it could slow down the release of histamine form mast cells to resist the allergic reaction. If added to cosmetics, in considering of its antibacterial activity, it can display the activities of anti-aging and anti-allergy, and also reduce the amount of preservative used. The Eucalyptus bridgesiana extract can be used not only in the culinary and medical fields, but also in the fields of the functional cosmetic ingredient in the future. |
