| 摘要: | 化粧品中主要的基質原料大致上是油脂，而油脂做為化粧品基劑，能賦予肌膚平滑柔軟性、增強疏水性膜、防止表皮水分散失、促進有效性成分之經皮吸收與調整產品硬度、黏度與光澤度，所以油脂在化粧品中算是不可或缺的原料之一。
現在許多化粧品研發公司，在研發化粧品時大多僅注重產品之功效性，常缺乏對於產品保存期限之穩定性評估。化粧品是一種由各類原料經調配而成的混合物，所以化粧品的安全、安定及有效，除了與配製技術及生產設備等密切相關外，主要決定於構成化粧品的原料組成成分。
因此本研究選用穩定性高及觸感佳之乳化劑為基礎，作為乳化系統的配方，再分別添加助乳化劑與高分子來提高配方之穩定性，之後使用15種不同油脂應用於乳化系統中，藉由溫度老化及離心試驗，由老化前後的黏度變化、粒徑大小變化及酸鹼值變化，探討油脂應用於乳化系統的穩定性。
研究結果顯示：（1）油脂使用Oliwax LC、Eumulgin EO33、Cutina PES於乳化系統中，不論有沒有添加助乳化劑或高分子於配方中，經溫度老化三天後並離心，乳化系統都呈現穩定狀態。（2）油脂使用Ercarel CCV於乳化系統中，就算添加助乳化劑或高分子於配方中，經溫度老化三天後並離心，也無法穩定整個乳化系統。（3）不同油脂應用於乳化系統中，添加助乳化劑於乳化系統中，能使7種油脂呈現穩定的狀態，而添加高分子於乳化系統中，能使12種油脂呈現穩定的狀態，可顯示油脂於乳化系統中的穩定效益：高分子 > 助乳化劑。（4）由實驗結果得知，油脂添加高分子於乳化系統中，添加高分子後，有助於提高黏度，能使粒徑變小，也能提高酸鹼值，使油脂於乳化系統中，更加穩定。
The main matrix material in cosmetics is generally oil and fat, and oil as a cosmetic base can impart smoothness and softness to the skin, enhance hydrophobic film, prevent epidermal water dispersion, promote transdermal absorption of effective ingredients and adjust product hardness and viscosity. With gloss, so fat is one of the indispensable ingredients in cosmetics.
Many cosmetic R&D companies now focus on the efficacy of their products when developing cosmetics, often lacking a stable assessment of the shelf life of the product. Cosmetics are a mixture of various raw materials. Therefore, the safety, stability and effectiveness of cosmetics are closely related to the preparation technology and production equipment, and are mainly determined by the constituent ingredients of cosmetics.
Therefore, this study is based on the emulsifier with high stability and good touch. As a formula of the emulsification system, the co-emulsifier and the polymer are separately added to improve the stability of the formulation, and then 15 different greases are used in the emulsification system. Through temperature aging and centrifugation tests, the stability of the emulsified system was investigated by the change of viscosity before and after aging, the change of particle size distribution and the change of pH value.
Research shows:(1) Oil and fat use Oliwax LC, Eumlin EO33, and Cutina PES in the emulsification system, with or without the addition of co-emulsifier or polymer in the formulation, after aging for three days and centrifugation, the emulsification system is in a stable state. (2) Grease uses Ercarel CCV in the emulsification system. Even if a co-emulsifier or a polymer is added to the formulation, the entire emulsification system cannot be stabilized after three days of temperature aging and centrifugation. (3) Different fats and oils are used in the emulsification system. When the emulsifier is added to the emulsification system, the seven kinds of oils and fats can be in a stable state, and the addition of the polymer in the emulsification system can make the 12 kinds of oils and oils have a stable state. Shows the stable benefits of oils and fats in the emulsification system: polymer > co-emulsifier. (4) It is known from the experimental results that the fat-adding polymer in the emulsification system, after adding the polymer, helps to increase the viscosity, can make the particle size smaller, can also increase the acid-base value, and make the oil in the emulsification system. more stable. |
