粉體化粧品的使用目的主要在於修飾膚色、遮掩面部瑕疵、吸收汗液及皮脂等，而添加矽油成分目的在於幫助產品延展性、增加滑順感提升產品附加價值等。如何穩定使用粉體於含矽油之乳化劑型，一直是業界開發高色彩及高舒適之乳化彩粧產品的挑戰。
本研究主要探討粉體及矽油對於不同乳劑型的穩定性及相關性。選擇不同濃度粉體及矽油分別加入乳化配方中，探討兩劑型的流變行為、成分異動、粒徑之影響，藉由溫度試驗、離心試驗來預測化粧品之穩定性，進而得知乳化劑、矽油及粉體於化粧品配方使用上的最佳穩定條件。
研究結果顯示：(1)乳化劑與矽油、粉體其結構和含量會影響乳化劑型穩定性。 (2) O/W型乳化劑切變致稀降幅倍數大小T≒L；W/O型乳化劑切變致稀降幅倍數大小O > E，而O/W型乳化劑TEGO® Care 215與W/O型乳化劑DOWSIL™ ES-5300 Formulation Aid在使用於化粧品中有較佳流變穩定。 (3) 流變行為影響穩定性及延展性：O/W劑型中，矽油添加量8% > 10% > 5%，粉體添加量3% > 5% > 0%；W/O劑型中，矽油添加量5% > 8% > 10%，粉體添加量3% > 5% > 0%。 (4) 成分異動試驗，O/W劑型中，選擇較黏稠的乳化劑，或添加矽油及粉體，能降低散失率；W/O劑型中粉劑增加具有增黏及潤滑的效果，但對於老化後的產品可能出現不穩定現象。 (5) O/W劑型粒徑分布試驗顯示，粒徑分布條件小於10μm具有較佳的乳化安定性。 (6) 由以上結果在可使用的穩定範圍內，篩選出配方T3C8P5及E3C5P5作為研究之基礎，能夠以此開發出穩定又有效之產品。
本研究結果可提供乳化劑、粉體、矽油於乳化劑型之穩定協同相關性，可做為開發乳化產品配方參考依據 The purpose of powder cosmetics is to modify the skin color, cover facial paralysis, absorb sweat and sebum, etc. The purpose of adding silicone oil is to help the product to be malleable, to increase the smoothness and enhance the added value. How to stabilize the use of powder in emulsifier formulations containing silicone oil. It has always been a challenge for the industry to develop high-color and high-comfort emulsified makeup products.
This research discuss the stability and correlation of powders and silicone oil in different types of cosmetics. Choose the different concentrations of powder and silicone oil to be added to the emulsified formula. Discuss the rheological behavior, ingredients loss rate and particle size behavior effect between different types of cosmetic. And then know the best efficacy and stability factor of emulsifier, silicone oil and powder in formulations by temperature test and centrifugal test to forecast formulations stability.
The results showed that：(1) The structure of the emulsifier and silicone oil and powder content may affect the stability of the emulsifier type. (2) O/W type emulsifier shear thinning decline in descending order T≒L；W/O type emulsifier shear thinning decline in descending order O > E. The result showed that O/W type emulsifier TEGO® Care 215 and W/O type emulsifier DOWSIL™ ES-5300 Formulation Aid had a better ductility and stability. (3) Rheological effects stability and ductility: In the O/W type emulsifier, silicone oil concentration 8% > 10% > 5% and the amount of powder added 3% > 5% > 0% ; in the O/W type emulsifier O > E, silicone oil concentration 5% > 8% > 10% and the amount of powder added 3% > 5% > 0%.(4) In ingredients loss rate, choosing a thicker emulsifier, adding silicone oil and powder can reduce ingredients evapotranspiration in O/W type; adding powder enhance sticky and smooth in W/O type. However, they may be instability after temperature test. (5) O/W type emulsifier particle size distribution showed that keep under 10μm, representing the emulsion products can get higher stability. (6) From above results within the stable range that can be used, and the best formulations as a research base to develop a stable and effective product are T3C8P3 and E3C5P5.
By the result of this study, can provide the stable synergistic correlation of emulsifier , silicone oil and powder ,which can serve as a reference for the development of powder cosmetics formulations.
