| 摘要: | 本研究乃針對五種臺灣特有青草植物：馬蹄金（Dichondra micrantha）、蠅翼草（Desmodium triflorum）、魚針草（Anisomeles indica）、大飛揚草（Euphorbia hirta）、艾草（Artemisia princeps. var. orientalis），其中艾草分為艾草梗及艾草葉。分別以熱迴流萃取獲得水萃物，再進行基質金屬蛋白酶（matrix metalloproteinases, MMPs）活性抑制分析、玻尿酸酶（hyaluronidase, HAase）活性抑制分析及抑菌能力試驗，藉以評估6種青草植物水萃物之化粧品功能性，並研發具有功效性之複方青草植物化粧品原料。從研究結果得知，複方青草植物水萃物組合A5（馬蹄金、艾草葉）、B4（蠅翼草、艾草葉）及C1（魚針草、大飛揚草），具抑制基質金屬蛋白酶（MMP-2與MMP-9）及玻尿酸酶活性之作用，可保護真皮層細胞外基質（Extracellular matrix, ECM）之膠原蛋白與玻尿酸不被分解，改善皮膚鬆弛、減少皺紋產生等老化徵兆以及具抗過敏作用。
另外，根據貼布試驗（Patch test）結果，10位受測者敷貼A5、B4及C1複方乳霜48小時後，均無不良反應，再持續觀察24小時與48小時，其中一位受測者在A5與B4之受測位置出現輕微紅疹之現象。此結果顯示，C1複方乳霜為安全性之化粧品，不會造成皮膚刺激過敏。依據膚質檢測結果，15位受測者分別使用A5、B4、C1之複方乳霜，均勻塗抹全臉，連續使用30天，A5複方乳霜有2位受測者皺紋具有明顯的改善；B4複方乳霜有3位受測者皺紋具有明顯的改善；C1複方乳霜有3位受測者皺紋具有明顯的改善。
根據上述實驗發現，複方青草植物水萃物經體外試驗所得知結果，應用於人體試驗上，確實具有抗皺與抗發炎效果，在未來開發化粧品原料方面，複方青草植物水萃物可取代化學成分，提升化粧品應用於人體更趨安全與天然的準則。
In this study, five species of Taiwan herbal plants, including Dichondra micrantha, Desmodium triflorum, Euphorbia hirta, Anisomeles indica, Artemisia princeps var. orientalis, were extracted and used as cosmetic ingredients. Hara plants were harvested and divided into two parts, stems and leaves. Therefore, six samples of herbal plants were extracted by used the heat reflux extraction and then. The extracts were analyzed by anti-MMPs zymography for anti-aging investigation, anti-hyaluronidase zymography for anti-allergy test, and disc diffusion method for anti-bacterial assay.
According to the experimental results, the effective samples were selected and mixed into three combined extraction solutions (designated as A5, B4, and C1). Research data showed that three multiple herbal extraction combination (A5, B4, and C1) have marked functions of inhibiting both matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-9 or MMP-2) and hyaluronidase to prevent collagen fibers and hyaluronic acids, present in the dermal extracellular matrix, from their degradation. Finally, the best anti-aging and anti-allergy extract combinations were added to the anti-wrinkle creams further used for the safety and efficiency evaluation of cosmetics on the upper arm skin of volunteer subjects.
The patch testing results showed that one of ten volunteer subjects (10%) had a weak positive reaction (a rash), and the other nine volunteer subjects (90%) had negative irritant reactions for 96 h. These results confirmed that three multiple herbal extraction creams (A5, B4, and C1) were safe cosmetics that would not cause skin irritation. On the other hand, 15 volunteer subjects used multiple herbal extraction creams (A5, B4, and C1) and evenly applied to the face for one month. According to the anti-wrinkle efficiency evaluation testing results, the A5, B4, and C1 creams showed 40% (two of five volunteer subjects), 60% (three of five volunteer subjects), and 60% (three of five volunteer subjects) improvements, respectively.
In short, according to the results presented in this study, the multiple herbal extracts exhibited anti-aging and anti-allergy capacities in vitro, as well as these multiple herbal extraction creams with the anti-wrinkle effects were also proven effective in vivo. |
