| 摘要: | 化妝可以說是令人更亮麗的技巧之一，也是一種社交禮儀的表現。當彩妝產品附著於臉上，若未清除乾淨，殘留於皮膚上將會阻塞毛孔，造成皮脂代謝困難，導致皮膚問題產生。
卸妝產品的開發除了產品的安定性外，另外的重點就是產品的有效性，但是同時利用有效性及物性評估了解卸妝產品的資料並不多見，固將有系統的研究及開發卸妝產品。
本研究選用Olivem1000(Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate)、CD pol(Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol)及Span/Tween作為界面系統，目的是調製O/W、W/O、Oil-type等不同劑型的卸妝產品，並改變油脂含量以及增稠劑之種類比較產品在物性及卸妝能力的差異。在物性方面，則測定流變性以及乳化球的粒徑大小與產品的儲存安定性。在卸妝能力方面，以 in vivo的測定方式配合RGB數位影像值與CIEL*a*b*值，評估卸妝產品之卸妝能力大小。
在物性評估方面，結果顯示，使用Olivem1000及Span/Tween為乳化系統所配製成的卸妝產品，在45℃加速老化前後皆表現出剪切變稀之流體行為，但是由CD pol所配製成的卸妝產品表現出非典型的剪切變稀流體行為。另外，配製好的油類型產品卸妝油皆不具剪切變稀的性質。在Olivem1000乳化系統中，含有5％濃度的Olivem1000之配方具有較好的儲存穩定性；而全油劑型則以15%濃度的Span80/Tween20之配方的儲存穩定性較好。而卸除力測定實驗中，所有卸妝配方產品的卸除力均高於84.61％以上。
綜合研究結果顯示，在乳化劑型中配方14具有良好的儲存穩定性與良好的乳質外觀，以及98.14％的高卸除力，其配方組成為Olivem1000 5%、CCT 6%、Finsolv TN 4%、Squalane 4%、Mineral oil 6%、IPP 6%、Stearic acid 2%、Stearic alcohol 2%、Glycerin 5%、Carbopol 1342 0.15%、GermabenII 0.8%、TEA 0.1%、D.W 58.95%.。另外，較佳之全油劑型為配方28，卸除力達99.84％，其配方組成為Span80 / Tween20 15％，CCT 19％，Finsolv TN 19％，squalane 19％，minernal oil 19％，IPP 19％，P-23 0.3％。
The color cosmetics are needed to have a fine-looking and high-spirited. After having finished their use at the end of the day, they will be considered as the useless dirt and lead to the abnormal metabolism of the skin. Due to the residue, the skin will be in the risk of thick pore and acne. Therefore, a make-up remover to take off the dirt is an important for a fresh skin.
Creating completely clean surface of the skin dependent on the character of remover. However, little attention has been given to it. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different compositions on efficacy and physicochemistry of removers.
For the study, three emulsifiers were selected for the various type of the remover. They are Olivem1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate), CD pol(Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol) and Span/Tween. The varying concentration of oil phase and various thickening agents were added to these formulations with various amounts of emulsifiers for formulating the make-up removers. As a result, a series of removers are obtained.Their physicochemistry including storage stability,particle size and rheological behavior, were determined and the efficacy using in-vivo test is evaluated by RGB digital and CIEL*a*b*.
In relation to physicochemistry, the results showed that emulsions with Olivem1000 and Span/Tween exhibited shear-thinning rheological behavior before and after accelerated test, but CD pol emulsions exhibited a non-typical shear-thinning behavior. On the other hand, the oil types obtained do not show shear-thinning behavior. The emulsions including Carbopol have higher viscosity than including RhodicareT. Among the removers, the emulsion type with Olivem1000 (5%) and the oil type with span80/tween20 (15%) have better storage stability than the others. In vivo test, the efficacy of all the removers was up to 84.61%.
Based on these findings, a desired emulsion and a desired oil type are obtained. The emulsion with efficacy of 98.14%, good storage stability and esthetic appearance is composed of Olivem1000 5%,CCT 6%,Finsolv TN 4%, Squalane 4%, Mineral oil 6%, IPP 6%, Stearic acid 2%, Stearic alcohol 2%, Glycerin 5%, Carbopol 1342 0.15%, GermabenII 0.8%, TEA 0.1%, D.W 58.95%. In addition, the desired oil type with high efficacy of 99.84% is composed of Span80/Tween20 15%,CCT 19%, Finsolv TN 19%, Squalane 19%, Mineral oil 19%, IPP 19%, P-23 0.3%. |
