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    請使用永久網址來引用或連結此文件: https://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/31871


    標題: 粉劑於高分子化粧品流變之探討
    A Study on the Rheological Behavior of Polymer Cosmetics contained Powder
    作者: 邱繼民
    貢獻者: 化粧品應用與管理系
    洪偉章
    關鍵字: 高分子化粧品
    粉劑
    黏度
    黏彈性
    穩定性
    polymer cosmetics
    powder
    viscosity
    viscoelasticity
    stability
    日期: 2018
    上傳時間: 2019-02-27 16:46:48 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 化粧保養產品因應各種需求,因此常會添加一些功能性的粉劑,包括物理性之防曬劑、活性成分之粉劑;高分子於化粧品可以提升使用者所使用的觸感,然而粉劑與高分子對於化粧品之流變行為存在一定範圍的影響,隨著化粧品流變性的差異,使得消費者對於的質感於附加價值也有不同的評價,粉劑顆粒分散於懸浮體中,可能伴隨著其結構性質與配方成分產生不同的分子間作用力,往往也可能是間接影響產品之間流變行為及穩定效能的因素。
    本實驗主要添加三種不同高分子(Carbomer、Hydroxyethylcellulose、Xanthan Gum)黏劑的化粧產品配方,探討不同劑型產品的流變性,包括評估各項產品的黏度及黏彈性差異評估,搭配含水量及pH值試驗比較產品之間的穩定性,另外,在乳化粧產品中,針對O/W型及W/O型產品添加粉劑,探討粉劑對產品效能及穩定性,觀察乳化化粧產品中的懸浮能力,評估粉劑是否對於乳化粧產品的穩定性造成影響,進而得知粉劑及高分子於化粧品配方使用上的最佳條件。
    本研究結果顯示:1) 高分子於O/W型產品中,可以調節產品的黏度及延展性,提升產品的黏觸感,但經由老化的過程,可能造成產品於靜態時黏度有所差異(△η?37%),也可能造成產品酸鹼值的不穩定(△pH>1.55)。2) 粉體的添加,可以有效的改善高分子在O/W型乳化產品中酸鹼值的不穩定(△pH=1.55→△pH?0.71),但卻也可能引起O/W型乳化產品流變行為(△η<10%→△η?37%)與油水分布現象(△W?2.06%→△W?2.84)的不穩定。3) 高分子於W/O產品中,可以改善產品流變行為的穩定性(△η?22%→△<10%),使產品具備熱安定,對於產品的酸鹼值(△pH<|±0.5|)及油水分布(△W<|±2%|)變化差異不大。4) 粉體添加於W/O產品中,具有增黏及潤化的效果,可能使產品偏酸,並造成W/O型產品在酸鹼值不穩定(△pH<-0.6)。但對於產品油水分佈穩定性(△W<|±2%|)並無顯著的影響,其產品老化後可能會產生黏度上的不穩定(△η?14%)。5) 乳化產品不易受時間變化而影響材料的形變狀態與流動性質(G'> G"),其產品在長時間的形態穩定,以高分子乳化粧品而言,W/O型產品的流變行為無論是在黏度(△η<10%)與黏彈性(△tanδ<10%)都比O/W型產品來得較為穩定。6) 在溶化產品中,高分子的添加可以改變及調整產品的酸鹼值(△pH=0.82→△pH<|±0.5|),讓產品酸鹼值更加穩定,其產品油水分布狀態均勻,高分子於溶化配方中並無太大的影響(△W<|±2%|)。7) 在所有高分子中,Carbomer具有可以讓產品成膠狀的特性,因此可以有效提升產品的黏度及彈性。
    本研究提供粉劑與高分子於乳化及溶化產品配方中之流變行為變化及其他相關穩定性之相關參考依據。
    In order to meet customers’ needs, cosmetic products often add some functional powders including physical sunscreen agents, active ingredients etc. Polymers which are applied to cosmetics can increase users’ tactile sensation. However, powders and polymers have a certain range of effects on the rheological behavior of cosmetics. With the differences in rheology of cosmetics, consumers have different points of view for the added value of cosmetics. Powder particles dispersed in the suspension may have different intermolecular forces due to their structural properties and formulation components, and may also be factors that indirectly affect the rheological behavior and stability of the product.
    This experiment mainly used three different polymers (Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum) to investigate the rheological properties of different formulations, which included assessing the viscosity and viscoelasticity differences of various products, as well as comparing the stability of products with water content and pH values. In addition, in the emulsified products, the powder is added to O/W type and the W/O type formulations with the purpose of investigating in the efficacy and stability of the powder, observing the suspension ability in the emulsion cosmetics, evaluating whether the powder has an effect on the stability of the emulsion cosmetics. As a result, the optimum condition for using the powder and polymers was found.
    The results of this study show that: 1) the polymer in O/W type formulations, the viscosity and ductility of the product can be adjusted, and the stickiness of the product can be improved. However, the thermal cycle test may cause the viscosity of the product to be different at static state (△η?37%). It may also cause instability of the product's pH (△pH?1.55). 2) The addition of powder can effectively improve the instability of polymers in the O/W type emulsion products (△pH=1.55→△pH?0.71), but it may also cause instability in the rheological behavior (△η<10%→△η?37%) and oil-water distribution (△W?2.06%→△W?2.84) of O/W type emulsion products. 3) Polymer in W/O type products can improve the stability of the rheological behavior of the products (△η?22%→△<10%), and make the products have thermal stability. There is no significant difference in the pH value of the products (△pH<|±0.5|) and the distribution of oil and water (△W<|±2%|). 4) Powder added to W/O type products have the effect of thickening and moistening, which may make the product acidic and cause instability in the pH value of W/O type products (△pH<-0.6). However, there is no significant effect on the stability of distribution of oil and water in the product (△W<|±2%|), and the product may have instability in viscosity after thermal cycle test (△η?14%). 5) Emulsion products are not susceptible to changes in time and affect the deformation state and flow properties of the materials (G'> G"). Their products are stable for a long time. For polymer emulsion cosmetics, the rheological behavior of W/O type products is both in viscosity (△η<10%) and viscoelastic (△tanδ<10%) are more stable than O/W type products. 6) In the solubility products, the addition of polymer can change and adjust the pH value of the product, so that the product's pH is more stable (△pH=0.82→△pH<|±0.5|), and the distribution of oil and water in the product is even. The polymer does not have much influence in the solubility formulations (△W<|±2%|). 7) Among all the polymers, Carbomer has the property of allowing the product to be gel-like, so it can effectively improve the viscosity and elasticity of the product.This study provides relevant references for the rheological behavior change and other related stability of powder and polymers in the formulation of emulsified and dissolved products.
    關聯: 電子全文公開日期:2023-07-10,學年度:106, 159頁
    顯示於類別:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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