| 摘要: | 粉體添加於化粧品中能修飾肌膚暗沉、膚色不均勻、遮蓋肌膚局部瑕疵，並吸收汗液與皮脂，也可以防禦紫外線的傷害。而油脂用於化粧品中有助於粉體分散與賦予肌膚柔潤感，但油脂容易造成化粧品不穩定導致分離現象產生。
本研究主要探討粉體對於乳化及凝膠化妝品之流變行為，並探討化妝品配方添加粉體之穩定性。先選擇不同油脂分別加入化妝品配方中，再加入粉體於配方中，探討兩種乳化劑(ABIL EM90、Tego Care 450)及三種高分子膠體(Carbopol U20、Carbopol 341、Carbopol 940)與粉體之流變行為。藉由溫度試驗及離心試驗來預測化妝品之穩定性，進而得知乳化劑、高分子膠體及粉體於化妝品配方使用上較佳的效能與穩定條件。
乳化化粧品結果顯示 : (1)油脂與乳化劑之結構和配方油水比例會影響乳化化粧品之穩定性。(2) 不同乳化劑之剪切致稀降幅倍數大小為Tego Care 450 > ABIL EM 90，由此可知乳化劑Tego Care 450有較佳的延展性。(3)流變影響穩定性與延展性，較佳延展性之選擇 : 在W/O型中油脂的選擇 D > T > N，油脂濃度5% > 10%，粉體添加量3% > 8% > 12%；O/W型中油脂的選擇D > N > T，粉體添加量8% > 3%。(4) 由實驗結果中，在可使用的穩定範圍內，以穩定性和延展性來定義，篩選出較佳的配方為E-D5-P3、 T-D5-P8，作為研究基礎，開發既有效又穩定的產品。
凝膠化妝品結果顯示 : (1)製作過程中，能量不足可能導致凝膠化妝品穩定性不佳。(2) 不同高分子之剪切致稀降幅倍數Carbopol 940 > Carbopol 341 > Carbopol U20，由此可知高分子Carbopol 940有較佳的延展性。(3) 流變影響穩定性與延展性，較佳延展性之選擇 : 在Carbopol 940與 Carbopol U20，油脂的選擇 C > R，而Carbopol 341，油脂的選擇 R > C，粉體添加量皆為12% > 8% > 3%。(4) 由實驗結果中，在可使用的穩定範圍內，以穩定性和延展性來定義，篩選出較佳的配方為G9-C1-P12，作為研究基礎，開發既有效又穩定的產品。
由本研究結果，可提供給化粧品配方開發人員，作為含粉體之化粧品開發參考依據。
Powders added to cosmetics can modify skin dullness, uneven skin tone, cover partial skin imperfections, and absorb sweat and sebum, as well as protect against UV damage. The use of oils and fats in cosmetics can help disperse the powder and impart a soft feeling to the skin. However, oils and fats can easily cause cosmetic instability and lead to separation.
This study focused on the rheological behavior of emulsified cosmetics and gel-type cosmetics contained powders, and explored the stability of powders added to cosmetic formulas. First, select different oils to be added into the cosmetic formula, and then add the powder to the formula to investigate the rheological behavior of the two emulsifiers(ABIL EM90、Tego Care 450) and the three polymer colloids(Carbopol U20、Carbopol 341、Carbopol 940) and powders. The temperature stability and the centrifugation test are used to predict the stability of cosmetics, and the better performance and stability conditions of emulsifiers, polymer colloids and powders in cosmetic formulations are obtained.
Emulsified cosmetics results showed that: (1) The structure of oils and emulsifiers and the ratio of oil to water affect the stability of emulsified cosmetics.(2) The shear thinning reduction factor of different emulsifiers is Tego Care 450 > ABIL EM 90, which shows that the emulsifier Tego Care 450 has better ductility.(3) Rheological effects on stability and ductility, better ductility options: In the W/O type, the choice of grease is D> T> N, the grease concentration is 5%> 10%, the powder addition amount is 3%> 8%> 12%; the O/W type grease is selected D> N> T, The amount of powder added is 8% > 3%.(4) From the experimental results, within the stable range that can be used, the stability and ductility are defined, and the best formula is selected as E-D5-P3 and T-D5-P8. As the research basis, the development is both effective and stable product.
Gel-type cosmetics results showed that: (1) During the production process, insufficient energy may cause poor gel cosmetic stability.(2) The shear thinning reduction ratio of different macromolecules is Carbopol 940 > Carbopol 341 > Carbopol U20, which shows that the polymer Carbopol 940 has better ductility.(3) Rheological effects on stability and ductility, better ductility options: In Carbopol 940 and Carbopol U20, the choice of oil is C> R, while Carbopol 341, the choice of oil R> C, the amount of powder added is 12%> 8%> 3%.(4) From the experimental results, within the stable range that can be used, the stability and ductility are defined, and the best formula is selected as G9-C1-P12. As a basis for the research, an effective and stable product is developed.
The results of this study can be provided to cosmetic formulation developers as a reference for the development of powder-containing cosmetics. |
