| 摘要: | 近年來化粧品市場原料主流多為天然植物萃取的產品，尤其萃取精油過程中所得到的副產物－純露(hydrolat, hydrosol)逐漸受到重視。在蓮霧生長過程中，果農會進行“疏花”，將過多的蓮霧花摘下丟棄，以維持蓮霧產果之高品質。目前，市場上並沒有蓮霧花純露在皮膚保養品上的相關應用與開發。因此，若能開發蓮霧花純露的功效及研發相關產品，即能將廢棄之蓮霧花再利用，並提升蓮霧果樹在台灣的經濟地位。本研究是採用南洋種蓮霧(學名Syzygium samaragense)生長過程中“疏花”所摘採下來的花，洗滌後，經由水蒸氣蒸餾法(steam distillation)萃取出精油與純露，其中蓮霧花純露萃取率為84.7±0.1%。然後將蓮霧花純露，再經由攪拌子吸附萃取(stir bar sorptive extraction)鑑定其成份，其中Benzylidene acetone、Eucalyptol、Eugenol、cis-Jasmone、Carvacrol、Isoeugenol為檢測準確值最高的成分，這些成分除了是香氛的組成因子外，還有抗感染、抗發炎及抑菌等功效。將蓮霧花純露調製並開發調配成乳液和精華液等產品，並進行安全性、穩定性、功效性等評估。在安全性評估中，將蓮霧花純露進行細胞毒性試驗與總生菌數檢測後，再將蓮霧花純露產品進行人體貼布試驗，證實產品安全無刺激性。另外，在穩定性評估試驗中，我們的蓮霧花純露產品配方，在經過酸鹼度試驗、稠度試驗、溫度試驗(高溫虐待試驗及凍融試驗) 、離心試驗及色差試驗中，於7天、14天、21天、28天、56天、84天不同時間點做檢測，測得數值並無太大的變化，證實我們的蓮霧花純露配方產品穩定性相當地高。在功效性評估上，將受測者分組測試蓮霧花純露製作的產品與純水製作的產品，在7天、14天、21天、28天不同時間點做保濕、美白、彈力、經皮水分散失等項目的檢測。測試結果顯示出蓮霧花純露產品在保濕及彈力的表現上優於純水製作的產品，證實了純露可取代化粧保養品製作中純水所扮演的角色，未來有很大的潛力可將蓮霧花純露產品商品化。
Recently, there are more and more products which are made of natural plants, especially hydrosol which is derived from essential oil producing. Farmers need to “discharge flowers” in the growing process of the wax apple. It means to get rid of excess wax apple flowers to maintain quality for harvest.Currently, there is no product which is made of hydrosol from wax apple flowers (WAFH). Therefore, if we can create and develop WAFH products, it could not only reuse WAFH but also upgrade wax apple tree’s economical status.In this experiment, we adopt and wash the wax apple flowers. Subsequently, we produce essential oil and hydrosol by the extraction of steam distillation. The rate of hydrosol extraction from the wax apple flowers was 84.7±0.1%. Then, we analyzed the ingredients of WAFH with the method of Stir Bar Sorptive Extraction (SBSE), and we found that Benzylidene acetone、Eucalyptol、Eugenol、cis-Jasmone、Carvacrol、Isoeugenol were the main compositions of WAFH. These ingredients were factors of fragrance and they had functions of anti-infection, anti-inflammation and bacteriostasis.We attempted to develop the stable formula in lotion and essence with WAFH, and assess the safety and efficacy of lotion and essence. In safety evaluation, we conduct WAFH to test cytotoxicity test and total plate count. And use the method of human patch trials to prove the products are safe. In stability evaluation, we monitor pH value, consistency test, temperature test, centrifugal test and color difference test for lotion and essence with WAFH in 7 days, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days, 56 days and 84 days, to get the smooth curve without sharp variation, to certificate stability test is reveal stable conditions. In efficacy evaluation, we use lotion and essence with WAFH on volunteer’s faces and to process moisture retention, whitening test, elasticity test and trans-epidermal water loss. The results show that the WAFH product is better than the purified water product in moisture and elasticity test. It implies that hydrosol can replace the role of purified water. In the future, we can use the WAFH to create more products into commercialization. |
