| 摘要: | 香皂從古代至現今都是人類日常所需使用的清潔用品，又因環境變化、空氣品質汙染導致大多數人皮膚易敏感，為改善敏感膚質自製手工皂也愈來愈風行，近年來環保團體推廣使用自製手工香皂，選用的配方原料也各式各樣，各種配方、油脂依比例相互混合使用以獲得更好的洗淨效果。隨著手工香皂已經在人類日常生活中扮演不可或缺的角色，因此對於手工皂所具有的物理性質、洗卸力、功效性、刺激性質也被列為手工皂重要的一部分。
本研究主要探討不同油脂製成手工香皂各項性質，並分析油脂添加於透明皂基與市售香皂探討其各項性質間關係，自製手工香皂以最常見的椰子油、棕櫚油為基礎油脂，再添加入5%不同植物油脂相互搭配經過皂化後，進行各項性質檢測，並分析檢測透明皂基添加油脂與市售香皂各項性質，篩選一具代表性手工香皂，與皂基皂、市售香皂一同進行相關性比較，進而歸納出結論。
實驗結果顯示 : 1）市售香皂硬度：M1>M2>M5>M3>M4，起泡力：M1=M2>M3=M4=M5，穩泡力：M1=M2>M3>M5>M4，洗淨力：M3>M1>M5>M4>M2，卸妝力：M5>M2>M3>M1>M4，保濕性：M3>M5>M4>M1>M2，水分散失：M3>M5>M1>M2>M4。2）市售香皂刺激性：M3>M2>M4>M1>M5，但屬於安全不刺激範圍。3）自製手工香皂熟成需經28天以上，透明皂基皂不需等熟成酸鹼值已達弱鹼性，熟成過後酸鹼值皆在pH9至pH10，酸鹼值也會因搭配油脂脂肪酸含量不同而有所差異，穩定熟成香皂酸鹼值與市售香皂相似。4）自製手工香皂硬度約需14天可達平衡，會因配方比例中不同油脂不同脂肪酸含量會讓皂有不同特性用途也有差異，熟成後硬度會與市售皂相似。5）透明皂基中含有油脂會提高硬度值，皂基添加油脂製作香皂不須熟成硬度就與市售皂相似。6）自製手工香皂在配方中再添加不同油脂會對其硬度以及起泡力有不同程度的影響，硬度較低皂質地較軟起泡力較差相反硬度高皂質較硬起泡能力較好，自製手工皂物理性質較佳油脂 :小麥胚芽油、白芒花籽油，皂基皂物理性質較佳油脂：荷荷芭油、小麥胚芽油，這幾種油質添加於配方中有較佳效能。7 ）自製手工香皂，使用後所殘留口紅的色差為微小色差(△E<1.5)，顯示手工皂有卸除顏色能力但不能有效完全卸除顏色，但能卸除些許顏色不代表去污力也佳，香皂洗淨力均能去除油污但依配方油脂不同去污能力也有所不同。8）自製手工香皂，其組成配方成分除了鹼液，其餘皆為天然成分與常使用植物油，刺激性皆優於大部分市售香皂，透明皂基中含有酒精成分，較不溫和容易刺激，皂基裡添加不同油脂，有些能因添加油脂不同降低其刺激性。9）自製手工香皂是無法立即達到保濕與降低水分散失，經過時間皮膚慢慢提升保濕度降低水分散失，這將會因製作方法能否有效保留植物油脂中大部分天然養分，因而具有保濕效果降低水分散失，自製手工香皂在效能再方面優於市售香皂。10）香皂各項性質間相關性，經SPSS統計分析後，其相關皆無顯著相關，僅有洗淨力與水分散失有些微相關性。11）將從自製手工香皂、皂基皂挑選出最優良油脂製成香皂，選出HD、SJ香皂與市售皂相比，結果發現其物理性質硬度、起泡力與市售香皂性能相仿，洗卸力、刺激性 與保濕性方面則優於市售香皂，顯現出HD、SJ油脂添加於基礎油脂中製成香皂為優良配方，可開發出更多高性能低刺激香皂。
研究分析不同油脂製成手工香皂與添加於透明皂基與市售香皂各項性能表現，希望能以作為化粧品開發人員對於選用油脂開發香皂之參考依據。
Soap from ancient to modern are the daily necessities of human cleaning products. because of environmental changes and air quality pollution causes most people skin sensitive, to reduce improve the sensitive skin homemade soap is also more and more popular. In recent years, environmental groups have promoted the use of homemade soap. Until today, soap still among around our life. So the physical properties of soap has, cleaning power, efficacy and irritation properties are also listed as important parts for soap.
This study focused on the properties of handmade soaps, and analyzed and discussed commercial soap to investigate the relationship between the nature. Handmade soap with the most common types of coconut oil and Palm oil of base oils with more Add 5% different plant oils with each other and then after saponification, the properties test carried out and analyzed the properties commercial soap, choose one has good property handmade soap commercially available comparative correlation with, and then summarized and conclusions.
The results:1) commercial soap hardness: M1>M2>M5>M3>M4, Foaming: M1=M2>M3=M4=M5, Foam stability: M1=M2>M3>M5>M4, Cleaning: M3>M1>M5>M4>M2, remove: M5>M2>M3>M1>M4, moisturizer: M3>M5>M4>M1>M2,TEWL: M3>M5>M1>M2>M4.2) commercial soap irritation: M3>M2>M4>M1>M5, but all belong to the scope of the security does not stimulate.3) Handmade soap ripening need 28 days, soap base do not have to wait for the pH value has reached the weak alkaline, After ripening, the pH is in pH 9 to pH 10.4) Self-made handmade soap hardness of about 14 days up to balance.5) The presence of grease in the soap base increases the hardness.6) handmade soap in the formula and then add different oils will have its hardness and foaming force have varying degrees of impact, handmade soap physical properties better oil: Wheat germ oil and Meadow foam oil, soap base physical properties better oil: Wheat germ and Jojoba oil.7) handmade soap the residual color of the lipstick after use is a small color difference (△ E <1.5), Handmade soap has the ability to remove the color but cannot effectively remove the color, Soap cleaning power can remove the oil but according to the formula of different decontamination capacity of oil is also different.8) handmade soap irritation is better than most of the commercially available soap, soap base add different oils can be to reduce its irritation.9)handmade soap and soap base is not immediately to achieve moisture and transepidermal water loss reduce, handmade soap and soap base is superior to commercially available soap in terms of performance.10) correlation between the soap, after analysis by the SPSS statistical calculations, which are no significant correlations.11) compared with commercial soap and handmade soap and soap base, and found that physical chemical propertie hardness and foaming , and commercial soap force performance is similar, but in terms of irritation, effectiveness and Cleaning and remove is better than commercial soap, revealing recipes for the production of hand soap recipe HD, SJ grease added to the base oil for the excellent formula the reference base, the foundation for subsequent research study, and then to develop more high-performance low-irritating soap. |
