| 摘要: | 化粧品中添加防曬劑能預防抵抗紫外線對人體皮膚的傷害，添加粉體能修飾皮膚暗沉、不均勻膚色、遮蓋面部瑕疵並吸收汗液與皮脂，也能防禦紫外線的傷害增加化粧品的防曬效能。而油脂於防曬化粧品中有助於提高產品的防曬效能，能提升產品的附加價值且降低防曬劑的使用量，減少皮膚對防曬劑的刺激性及降低產品成本。本研究主要探討油脂及粉體對於不同劑型化粧品的效能，並探討化粧品配方使用上兩者之間穩定性及效能相關性。先選擇不同油脂分別加入化粧品配方中測試其效能，再加入粉體於配方中，探討兩種劑型不同濃度乳化劑、油脂、粉體交叉搭配對SPF值、流變的影響，藉由溫度試驗、離心試驗來預測化粧品之穩定性，進而得知乳化劑、油脂及粉體於化粧品配方使用上的最佳效能與穩定條件。
研究顯示結果：(1)乳化劑和油脂其結構和配方油水比例會影響乳化化粧品之穩定性。(2) W/O型乳化劑剪切變稀降幅倍數大小為EM90(10) > DPHS(7)；O/W型乳化劑剪切變稀降幅倍數大小為TEGO CARE 450 (20)> ABIL CARE 85(16)，由此可知W/O型乳化劑EM90與O/W型乳化劑TEGO CARE 450有較佳的延展性。(3) 流變影響穩定性和延展性，較佳延展性之選擇為：W/O劑型中乳化劑EM90 > DPHS，油脂DC200/100 > Tegosoft TN > Tegosoft DEC > TSF404，油脂濃度10% > 5%，粉體添加量5% > 0%；O/W劑型中乳化劑TEGO CARE 450 > ABIL CARE 85，油脂Tegosoft DEC > DC200/100 > Tegosoft TN > TSF404，油脂濃度10% > 5%，粉體添加量0% > 5%。(4) 不同劑型、乳化劑、油脂和粉體為影響SPF值之因素。SPF值：W/O劑型 > O/W劑型，W/O劑型中乳化劑EM90 > DPHS，油脂DC200/100 > Tegosoft DEC > TSF404 > Tegosoft TN，油脂濃度10%≒5%，粉體添加量5% > 0%，O/W劑型中乳化劑TEGO CARE 450≒ABIL CARE 85，油脂 DC200/100≒Tegosoft TN > Tegosoft DEC≒TSF404，油脂濃度10%≒5%，粉體添加量5% > 0%；SPF值穩定性：W/O劑型中油脂Tegosoft TN > DC200/100 > Tegosoft DEC ≒ TSF404，O/W劑型中油脂Tegosoft TN≒DC200/100≒TSF404 > Tegosoft DEC。(5) 乳化劑與油脂的選擇及粉體的添加有助於提升配方的防曬效能，可降低防曬劑的使用量，而減少皮膚對防曬劑的刺激性及降低產品成本。(6)由以上結果在可使用的穩定範圍內，以穩定性和SPF值來定義，篩選出最佳的配方E3M5P0、T4M10P0，以及添加粉體配方E3M5P5、T3A5P5，作為研究基礎，開發一種既有效又穩定的產品。
由本研究結果，可提供穩定且高效能防曬產品及粉體化粧品配方開發參考依據。
Global environmental change to make the ozone hole caused by UV enhancement, leading to the skin's resistance to the external environment weakened and increased skin sensitivity. People pay more and more attention to low sensitivity sunscreen and isolation products. Currently on the market sunscreen and isolation products countless, and the introduction of multiple efficacy products, the main effective blocking ultraviolet, air pollution and other external environmental threats, combined with sunscreen, isolation, polish, moisturizing four effects, enhance skin defense.
Cosmetics add sunscreen can prevent UV damage to human skin, and add powder can modify the skin dull, uneven skin color, cover facial flaws and absorb sweat and sebum, but also protect against UV damage and increase the sunscreen efficacy of cosmetics. The lipids in the sunscreen cosmetics helps to improve the product's sunscreen efficacy, Can increase the added value of the product and reduce the use of sunscreen, reduce skin irritation to sunscreen and reduce product costs.
This research discuss the efficacy of lipids and powder in different types of cosmetics, investigate between the efficacy and stability of relation. First choose a different kind of lipids to apply in cosmetic formula to test its efficacy. Then apply the powder in the formula to investigate SPF value and rheological behavior effect between different type of cosmetics, concentrations of emulsifier, lipids and powder and then know the best efficacy and stability factor of emulsifier, lipids and powder in formulations by temperature test and centrifugal test to forecast formulations stability.
The results showed that: (1) Emulsifier and lipids of the structure and formula ratio of oil and water will affect the emulsified cosmetics stability. (2)W/O type emulsifiers shear thinning decline in descending order EM90(10) > DPHS(7)；O/W type emulsifiers shear thinning decline in descending order TEGO CARE 450 (20) > ABIL CARE 85(16).In test result show that W/O type emulsifier EM90 and the O/W type emulsifier TEGO CARE 450 had a better ductility.(3) Rheological effect stability and ductility, the preferred ductility is: W/O type emulsifier EM9 0> DPHS, lipids DC200 / 100 > Tegosoft TN > Tegosoft DEC > TSF404, lipids concentration 10% > 5 %, the amount of powder added 5% > 0%; O/W type emulsifier TEGO CARE 450> ABIL CARE 85, lipids Tegosoft DEC > DC200 / 100 > Tegosoft TN> TSF404, lipids concentration 10% > 5% the amount of powder added 5% > 0%.(4) different types of formulations , emulsifiers, lipids and powder are the factors of the SPF value.SPF value: W / O type > O / W type, emulsifier in W / O type EM90 > DPHS, lipids DC200 / 100 > Tegosoft DEC > TSF404 > Tegosoft TN, lipids concentration 10% ≒ 5% the amount of powder added 5 % > 0%, O / W type TEGO CARE 450 ≒ ABIL CARE 85, lipids DC200 / 100 ≒ Tegosoft TN > Tegosoft DEC ≒ TSF404, lipids concentration 10% ≒ 5%, the amount of powder added 5%> 0% ; SPF value stability: W / O type of lipids Tegosoft TN > DC200 / 100 > Tegosoft DEC ≒ TSF404, O / W type of lipids Tegosoft TN ≒ DC200 / 100 ≒ TSF404> Tegosoft DEC. (5) Choice of emulsifier and grease and powder added to help improve the sunscreen effect of the formula can reduce the use of sunscreen, while reducing the skin on the sunscreen irritation and reduce product costs. (6) From the above results within the stable range that can be used, the stability and SPF values were defined, and the best formulations E3M5P0, T4M10P0, and the powder formulations E3M5P5 and T3A5P5 as a research basis to develop an effective and stable products.
By the results of this study, can provide a stable and high-performance sunscreen products and powder cosmetics formula and development reference. |
