眾所周知，塗抹防曬霜可以防止皮膚因過度曝曬而引起的損傷，所以防曬劑的需求已與日俱增。但市場上的防曬產品在UV輻射及高溫條件下容易發生光分解，而導致物性的改變及有效性性的降低，因此本實驗擬探討儲存安定性與有效性品質較佳之O/W與W/O防曬產品。首先本實驗以GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate)及CDPOL (Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol)作為主要的界面乳化系統，並改變增稠劑成分，觀察是否影響產品性質。防曬成分則選用Parsol 1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane)及PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate )共兩種；GMS乳化系統增稠劑選用Rhodicare T (Xanthan Gum)及HEC (Hydroxyethylcelluloe)及Carbopol 1342 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)共三種；CDPOL乳化系統增稠劑則選用MgSO4 (Magnesium Sulfate)及NaCl (Sodium Chloride)共兩種。所調製的產品透過加速老化及離心試驗，測定安定性、流變性、粒徑大小變化與有效性SPF值，並以此評估篩選出較佳的防曬乳配方。在物性測試方面，由結果顯示，所有調配的防曬乳液經加速老化前後都呈切變減稀之流變性質。顯然，當塗抹於皮膚上時，具有良好的塗抹觸感。而在兩種乳化劑，CDPOL的乳化系統儲存安定性會高於GMS乳化系統，另外CDPOL防曬產品在有效性方面與防曬劑的添加量上有相關連性。經由研究結果顯示，最佳之防曬配方F29，具有高防曬係數63.3，與良好儲存安定性及美學外觀，其配方組成如下：CDPOL 2.00%、C.C.T 4.00%、Squalane 3.00%、Finsolv TN 3.00%、Dimethicone 5.00%、Parsol 1789 5.00%、Parsol MCX 10.00%、NaCl 0.50%、Germaben II 0.60%、D.W 66.90%。 It is well known that suncreams’ application is a good way to avoid the skin damage due to the overexposure to the sunlight during daytime. This led to the increasing needs for suncreams in the market. A series of suncreams were approved and applied, but some of them can cause photodegradation under extreme conditions such as UV radiation and evolved temperature. It will result in physical instability and the lower efficacy of the suncreams. Hence, the purpose of this study is to optimize suncreams that can promise properties and application for consumers. In order to formulate elegant suncreams, two different types of surfactants, GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate) and CDPOL (Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol), were selected as emulsifiers. A combination of PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate) with P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl-4?-Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) is incorporated into emulsions. Various thickeners were examined by varying amounts to investigate the influence on characters of suncreams. After preparation, we investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, particle size and distribution, and intro SPF efficacy during typical accelerated test.In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that all the formulated suncreams exhibited shear-thinning rheological behavior before and after accelerated test. Obviously, they can provide good skin feel when they are applied onto the skin. In the two emulsifiers, CDPOL exhibited better storage stability than GMS. On the other hand, the efficacy of sunscreen products with CDPOL was well correlating with the amounts of the used UV filters.Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product was obtained. With high SPF of 63.3, good storage stability, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of CDPOL 2.00%、C.C.T 4.00%、Squalane 3.00%、Finsolv TN 3.00%、Dimethicone 5.00%、Parsol 1789 5.00%、Parsol MCX 10.00%、NaCl 0.50%、Germaben II 0.60%、D.W 66.90%。
