| 摘要: | 台灣面膜市場蓬勃發展，且市場上逐漸走向天然植物萃取配方。因此，本研究選用台灣傳統上常用來治療皮膚發炎或舒緩皮膚紅腫的左手香植物，將此植物應用於產品配方中，以面膜劑型作為本研究主軸。 本實驗使用不同來源的水源進行萃取，比較萃取液之間的活性差異性，包含進行抗氧化實驗：DPPH˙自由基清除率、ABTS˙陽離子抗氧化能力，以及總酚含量測定。本研究以貼布試驗測試其萃取液對人體之安全性，並以肉桂精油模擬皮膚紅斑現象，測試萃取液之紅斑消除效果。應用於產品中，以調製出兩種不同面膜劑型之產品，將油脂與純水依比例調和成滋潤度較高之乳液面膜，以及純水為基底添加高分子增稠劑所調製出較清爽型之水面膜，兩種相互比較，並使用全臉膚質檢測儀、全臉美白檢測儀、皮膚水分檢測儀，以及感官問卷整合成產品之有效性評估。 根據活性評估、總酚含量及萃取液之紅斑消除效果發現，不同溶劑之萃取液會產生不同的活性結果，且紅斑消除能力也會因為水源不同而產生不同的消退能力。產品有效性評估發現，含萃取液之乳液面膜針對毛孔、紋理、紅色區以及保濕度有明顯的改善；含萃取液之水面膜針對紫質及全臉明亮度有較好的功效性，且乳液面膜與水面膜之感官測試結果相近。根據本研究結果可知，針對不同的膚質情況使用其合適的面膜劑型，能使產品功效性提升。
The facial mask is booming in Taiwan market, and the trend is tent to use natural plant extraction as ingredient. Therefore, this study selects Plectranthus amboinicus Lour., a Taiwan traditional plant which is usually used to treat inflamed skin or relieve redness and swelling of the skin, to be used in the product ingredients, adopting dosage type of facial mask agent as the main idea of the research. The experiment was used through extracting different water source, comparing the difference of the activity among the extract liquor, and performing the antioxidant experiments, such as the clearance rate of DPPH, antioxidant capacity of ABTS and cation, and the measurement of total phenols content. This study used the method of patch test to test the safety of extract liquor on human bodies, and stimulated the phenomenon of the erythema on skin by using cinnamon essential oil to test the effect of eliminating erythema of the extract liquid. The ingredient was applied in the products to create two products with different dosage types of mask agents, combining grease and pure water in proportion to create two emulsion masks with high moisture degree, and adding the polymeric thickener with pure water base to create a refreshing water mask. Comparing two kinds of masks and integrating the detector being used for detecting the skin type of full face, the detector for whitening the skin, the detector for detecting skin moisture, and questionnaires about sense for products into validity evaluation for products. According to the activity evaluation, total phenol content and the effect of eliminating erythema of extract liquid, it is found that different extract liquids with different solvents can make different activity effects, and the capacities of erythema elimination varied in different solvents also can produce different effects. It is found from product effectiveness evaluation that emulsion mask include the extract liquor has significant improvements on porse, texture, red areas and moisturizing degree; The while water mask include the extract liquor has better efficiency on porphyrins and brightness degree of full face, and the result of sensory test of emulsion mask is close to that of water mask. According to the results of this study, it is shown that using appropriate dosage forms of mask agent aiming at different types of skin condition could promote the efficiency of products. |
