| 摘要: | 天然植物化粧品近幾年發展趨勢，主要為天然萃取物之應用並降低化學合成的原料使用，以減少對皮膚的刺激性與負擔，符合天然、健康、安全等訴求。本研究選擇了五種植物，萃取成七種萃取物Y、P、PA、T、H、G、F，並評估其抗氧化活性、美白、細胞毒性、UV吸收光譜、抗菌、防曬係數SPF及UVA之保護等研究，進而篩選出活性較佳之萃取物作為防曬化粧品之天然原料。結果顯示，在抗氧化活性的部分，清除 DPPH? 自由基活性以植物PA較佳SC50 為0.035 ± 0.001 mg/mL；清除 ABTS+? 自由基活性以植物T為最佳 ( SC50 0.021 ± 0.0002 mg/ml )、而PA、G 其SC50 分別是0.027 ± 0.0005 mg/ml、0.04 ± 0.005 mg/ml；總酚含量以植物H有最高的酚含量 314.17±3.83 mg of GAE/g ；DNA保護活性評估在濃度1 mg/ml時植物Y其保護率77.56%；細胞存活率所有萃取物皆有在濃度2 mg/ml皆有85%的存活率；傷口癒合試驗中以植物Y效果為最佳，24小時癒合率為60.64%。防曬評估結果顯示七種萃取物在UV光譜中280-400 nm紫外線皆有明顯的吸收值。篩選植物Y、P、H、G、PA作為添加防曬產品之萃取物，以單方及複方同時添加 Parsol MCX、Parsol 1789配置防曬產品中，結果顯示有顯著提升防曬係數SPF效果，其中以單方植物防曬配方H效果最佳，SPF值由7.63±0.17提升至12.33±2.05提升率為61.59%，其次為Y，SPF值由7.63±0.17提升至11.02±0.98提升率為44.16%。複方為G+Y效果最佳，SPF值由7.63±0.17提升至12.09±1.22提升率為58.45%，顯示植物Y、P、H、G、PA，可應用於防曬產品中，進而開發為天然輔助防曬之原料。另由研究中發現防曬配方中之添加UVB防曬劑Parsol MCX會降低UVA防曬劑Parsol 1789及Oxybenzone之UVA之保護能力，未來如要開發針對UVA保護能力之防曬產品，建議配方可單純添加UVA之化學吸收劑。 產品穩定性方面，顯示出添加萃取物H+Y之防曬霜在3種溫度下不會影響產品的顏色。產品黏度的測定中，防曬霜B+1+M+H+Y的黏度在這3種溫度下都是穩定的，是適合添加於防曬霜中。測定產品粒徑大小時，各產品粒徑大小皆為穩定。In-vivo-防曬試驗中，由3位受測者進行防曬測試實驗，顯示萃取物H+G對UVA之保護及提升有明顯之作用，未來可用於開發新的防曬劑配方。?
In recent year , the main development of natural plant cosmetics trend in the application of natural extracts and reduce to use raw materials the chemical synthesis. Reduce skin irritation and burden, and it can be suit for natural cosmetics, health, safety and other demands. In this study , we chose five plants, Y, P, PA, T, H, G, F, and assessed the antioxidant activity, whitening, MTT assay , UV absorption spectrum, antimicrobial , sun protection factor SPF their research , and then filtered the best activity extracts as sunscreen cosmetics natural ingredients. The results showed that in antioxidant activity, clearing DPPH ? Free Radical plant PA the best SC50 was 0.035 ± 0.001 mg / mL; Clear ABTS + ? radical activity of the plant is the best T (SC50 0.021 ± 0.0002 mg / ml ), while the PA, G SC50 were 0.027 ± 0.0005 mg / ml, 0.04 ± 0.005 mg / ml; total phenolic content of plant-H had the highest phenol content of 314.17 ± 3.83 mg of GAE / g; DNA protective activity evaluated in the concentration of 1mg / Y its plant protection ratio when ml 77.56%; cell viability in all plants concentration 2mg / ml 85% survival rate; the wound healing test of plant PA was the best the 24-hour healing rate was 77.85% . Sunscreen assessment showed that seven extracts in 280-400 nm UV absorbance all appeared clearly in UV spectrum. Choose plant Y, P, H, G, PA as an added sunscreen of extracts to single plant and compound formula while adding Parsol MCX, Parsol 1789 configuration sunscreen products, the results showed a significant upgrade SPF effect, which unilaterally plant sunscreen formulations H best, SPF value increased from 7.63 ± 0.17 to 12.33 ± 2.05, upgrade rate was 61.59%, followed by Y, SPF value increased from 7.63 ± 0.17 to 11.02 ± 0.98 upgrade rate was 44.16%. Compound G + Y is the best, SPF value increased from 7.63 ± 0.17 to 12.09 ± 1.22 upgrade rate was 58.45% . It showed that the plants Y, P, H, G, PA, can be used in sunscreen products, and cause to develop the natural secondary raw sunscreen. Another discovery by researchers in sunscreen formulations of adding UVB sunscreens Parsol MCX reduces UVA sunscreen agent Parsol protection 1789 and the UVA of Oxybenzone the future as to develop against UVA protection of sunscreen products, the suggestive formula can simply add chemical UVA's absorbent. The stability of the products , show that if we add extracts H+Y sunscreen at three temperatures,it will not affect the color of the products.Determination of the viscosity of the product,sunscreen B+1+M+H+Y viscosity at these three temperatures are stable it is suitable for supplementing sunscreens.The determination of the products particle size,each of them are all stble. In in-vivo sunscreen experiment, there are three subjects bene tested sunscreen experiments. show extracts of UVA protection and enhancement of the role of the obvious. It can be used to develop new sunscreen formulations in the future. |
