| 摘要: | 本研究主要探討天然萃取物對於皮膚過敏發紅的舒緩功效，將天然萃取物添加於化粧品中並利用L.a.b值的變化，觀察其有無舒緩作用。選取9種植物並分成各部位以水作為溶劑，經微波加熱方法萃取後，冷凍乾燥為21種萃取物，萃取物代號分別為 1~21。將此萃取物進行美白、抗氧化活性、細胞傷口癒合能力、細胞毒性、DNA 保護率、UV 吸收、總酚含量、舒緩等實驗。 本實驗選用兩種防腐劑K100 (由Benzyl Alcohol、Methyl chloroisothiazolinone、Methyl isothiazolinone組成 ) 和綜合防腐劑 (由Benzoic Acid、Potassium sorbate、Glucono-Delta-Lactone組成) 作為誘發皮膚過敏發紅的誘因，在皮膚敷上1~5號的萃取物，經過15、30、60 分鐘後來評估皮膚發紅舒緩效果。結果顯示當敷上1~5號萃取物經15、30、60分鐘後對於綜合防腐劑誘發皮膚發紅，其1~5號萃取物對皮膚致紅改善率在15、30、60分鐘分別皆約達到30%、60%、80%。而對於防腐劑K100 引起皮膚之紅，同樣在敷上天然萃取物15、30、60分鐘後，皮膚致紅改善率分別皆約達到20%、70%、85%。顯示1~5號萃取物對此兩種防腐劑引起皮膚紅有明顯舒緩作用，本研究進一步將2、3、4、5萃取液混和，配置為膠體及乳劑產品並檢測對紅腫皮膚之舒緩作用，結果亦顯示有明顯舒緩改善率。本研究結果在未來可用於產品中舒緩皮膚之紅腫，並應用於開發醫美產品之開發。
his study mainly discusses the soothing effect of natural extracts on the irritability and reddening of the skin by adding natural extracts into cosmetics and observes whether it has soothing effect or not through the variation of L*a*b* color space value. Nine plants were selected and divided into different sections, being placed into water as solution, which were heated through microwave, extracted, frozen and dried to become 21 kinds of extracts, whose codes were from No.1 to No.21 respectively. Experiments on the effects of skin whitening, antioxidant activity, cell wound healing ability, cell toxicity, DNA protection rate, UV absorption, total phenols content and soothing etc. of these extracts were conducted.This experiment selected two kinds of preservatives, K100 preservative (which was consisted of benzyl alcohol, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone) and the composite preservative (which was consisted of benzoic acid, potassium sorbate and glucono-delta-lactone) as the inducements of the irritability and reddening of the skin. The No.1 to No. 5 extracts were applied on the skin, and, evaluated the soothing effects on reddening of the skin in 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes. The result showed that the improvement rates were respectively 30%, 60% and 80% in 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes after applying the No.1 to No. 5 extracts on red skin which induced by composite preservatives. While the improvement rates were respectively 20%, 70% and 85% in 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes after applying the No.1 to No. 5 extracts on red skin which induced by K100 preservatives. It showed that the No.1 to No. 5 extracts has significant soothing effects on reddening of skin induced by these two preservatives. The study further mixed the No.2 to No. 5 extracts to become colloid and emulsion products and detected the soothing effects on reddening of skin, which also had significant soothing and improving effects. The result of the study could be used in products for soothing reddening of skin and in the development of medical cosmetic products. |
