| 摘要: | 絲瓜屬原產於熱帶和亞熱帶的一種葫蘆科藤本植物，本研究為研發天然及環保之化粧品，選用稜角絲瓜、短筒絲瓜及長筒絲瓜三種不同品種絲瓜，以其非食用之部位，主要為葉子及果實外皮，利用水及丁二醇為溶劑，經由微波加熱萃取，其萃取液進行抗氧化試驗包含DPPH‧自由基清除率、ABTS‧+自由基清除率；美白活性為體外酪胺酸?抑制試驗；總酚含量；防曬試驗包含UV吸收光譜、In vitro、In vivo防曬評估；抗菌試驗包含紙錠擴散試驗、ATP冷光生物檢測；皮膚紅斑消退試驗分為模擬紫外光曬傷出現紅斑之使用產品修復、以及模擬皮膚碰到精油引起紅腫過敏之使用產品舒緩修復等一系列評估試驗。 結果顯示，稜角絲瓜葉及短筒絲瓜葉之丁二醇萃取物在DPPH‧自由基清除率中，其10%萃取液之清除率皆高達90%以上；而三種絲瓜葉之水萃物及丁二醇萃取物在ABTS‧+自由基清除率中，其10%萃取液亦有極佳之清除率；短筒絲瓜露在體外酪胺酸?抑制試驗中具有美白活性，其10%萃取液之抑制率為29.44 ± 1.33；長筒絲瓜果皮在總酚含量試驗中為最佳，其總酚含量為166.61 (mg GAE/g)；而短筒絲瓜果皮在UV吸收光譜具有最高吸收值，並且應用於In vitro及In vivo防曬評估，結果顯示其短筒絲瓜果皮與Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (UVB吸收劑)?種成分之添加後對SPF具有加乘性；另外三種絲瓜葉之丁二醇萃取物應用於紙錠擴散試驗、ATP冷光檢測試驗中皆可以抑制大腸桿菌；並且將三種絲瓜葉之丁二醇萃取物及短筒絲瓜露依比例混合配置成凝膠產品應用於皮膚紅斑消退試驗及曬傷修復有良好之效果。 最後將美白、抗菌、紅斑消退之效果較佳的三種絲瓜葉丁二醇萃取物及短筒絲瓜露依比例混合配置成化粧水、面膜液、精華液、及乳液，研究複合物是否具有加乘功效，並且評估產品穩定性、功效性，結果顯示其具有美白、保濕、減少斑點、撫平細紋、降低肌膚敏感、及減少紫質生長等功效。此研究在物盡其用兼具環保的概念下，將農產品非食用之部位加值再利用，創造出新的商業價值。
Luffa is a genus of tropical and subtropical vines in the cucurbitaceae family. This study for the development of environmental protection and natural cosmetics. The Luffa are three kinds different species that is Luffa acutangula, Luffa cylindrical(short tube and long tube). The microwave extraction solution consists mainly of leaves and fruit's pericarp, use of water and butylene glycol as the solvent. The extract contains anti-oxidation test of DPPH．radical scavenging and ABTS．+ radical scavenging, whitening active is a in vitro tyrosinase inhibition test, total phenol content, sunscreen test by UV absorption spectrum, sunscreen assessment of In vitro & In vivo, anti-bacterial test by disc agar diffusion method and ATP bioluminescence technique, skin erythema subsided test into simulation of UV sunburn and encountered essential oil caused by erythema of the use of the product repair, redness and irritation of the use of the product soothing repair and so forth. The results show, butylene glycol extract of the leaves of Luffa acutangula and Luffa cylindrical (short tube) in DPPH‧ radical scavenging which 10% of the extract clearance rate of more than 90%. However, three kinds of aqueous extract and butylene glycol extract of Luffa leaves in ABTS‧+ radical scavenging rates which 10% of the extract also has very good clearance rate. Short tube of Luffa cylindrical dew has the whitening activity in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay, which 10% of the extract inhibition was 29.44 ± 1.33. The long tube pericarp of Luffa cylindrical was the best in total phenol content test, in which the total phenolic content of 166.61 (mg GAE / g). The short tube pericarp of Luffa cylindrical has the highest absorption value in the UV spectral region and applied In vitro and In vivo assessment of sunscreen. The results showed that the SPF has a synergistic effect after adding the two components of the short tube pericarp of Luffa cylindrical and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (UVB absorbers). Besides, the other three kinds of butylene glycol of Luffa leaves extract can be suppressed of E. coli by both of used in disc agar diffusion method and ATP bioluminescence technique. Furthermore, the three kinds of butylene glycol of Luffa leaves extract and the short tube of Luffa cylindrical dew blend scaled configured to gel products have very well effect that applied to the skin erythema regression and sunburn repair tests. Finally, we blend scaled configured to toning lotion, mask liquid, essence, emulsion by three kinds of the butylene glycol of Luffa leaves extracts and the short tube of Luffa cylindrical dew have the preferred effect of whitening, anti-bacterial, erythema subsided, then research whether the complex synergistic efficacy, stability and efficacy. The results show that it has whitening, moisturizing, reducing spots, smoothing fine lines, reducing skin sensitivity and reducing the growth of rhodopsin effects. This study can make the best use under the concept of environmental protection. Non-edible parts of the agricultural value added and re-used, create newer and greater business value. |
