| 摘要: | 眾所週知，肌膚若長時間暴露在含紫外光的太陽光環境下，容易形成許多肌膚問題甚至造成病變危機。因此，保護肌膚就相當重要了，除了避免曝曬在陽光下之外，更需要塗抹適當的防曬產品。市售防曬產品琳瑯滿目，但好品質的防曬產品參差不齊，再加上許多防曬成份具有化性不安定的性質，消費者使用會有刺激性疑慮，另外容易引起不舒服黏膩感。所以，本研究擬開發品質及安定性佳的清爽型O/W之防曬產品。本研究主要是探討GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate)界面乳化系統，在三種濃度比例下添加不同之油脂，分別為Mineral Oil、Amiter MA-HD、Aloe Oil、硬脂酸及鯨蠟醇；防曬成分共四種分別為Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate (PMCX)、4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane (P1789)、Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul? A Plus)及Titanium Dioxide (TiO2)。所配製之防曬乳液經3個月45℃加速老化後，其測定流變性、安定性、穩定性並評估SPF有效性，依評估結果篩選出具高安定性與觸感性皆佳之清爽型防曬配方。研究結果顯示，以GMS界面系統所配製之防曬產品，GMS的濃度大於1.6%以上時可得儲存安定性較佳的基礎乳液及防曬乳霜。另外，含Amiter MA-HD所得的防曬乳霜，SPF穩定度下降幅度均大於Aloe Oil及Mineral Oil，顯示Amiter MA-HD與防曬成分的乳化分散性較不佳。而使用Uvinul? A Plus防曬劑取代P1789後發現，光安定大約與P1789相當，其他物性亦差異不大。最後，添加物理性防曬成分之防曬乳霜，其安定性下降但SFF值會上昇。經由一系列實驗及評估，選出最佳防曬產品為配方9，儲存安定性可達91天，且具有高清爽度及良好的塗抹觸感，黏稠度經加速老化後仍然能維持一定的稠度，防曬係數可達SPF 50+，其配方組成如下：GMS 1.6%、Aloe Oil 12.00%、Parsol MCX 10.00%、Parsol 1789 5.00%、Amphisol K 0.64%、Cabopol 1342 0.104%、D.W 69.92%、Germaben II 0.64%、TEA 0.10%。
It is well known that overexposure to UV radiation will cause wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules and even skin cancer. To protect the skin from UV damage, sunscreen products should be properly applied on the skin during the daytime. A great number of sunscreen products are available in the commercial market. However, some of them include chemically instable sunscreens such as PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate) and/or P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane). They will result in the disadvantage changes in physical properties and the lower efficacy. This has led to the intensive development of elegant sunscreen products.The aim of this study is to evaluate the influence of different kinds of oils and filter combinations on the storage stability and the sunburn protection of sunscreen emulsions with oil in water type. In order to formulate the o/w sunscreen products, a surfactant, GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate) as a emulsifier and five oily ingredients, Mineral Oil, Aole Oil, Amiter MA-HD(Hexyldecyl Myristoyl Methylaminopropionate), Stearic acid, and Cetyl alcohol as oil phase, were examined. And three chemical UV filters, PMCX(OctylMethoxy Cinnamate), P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) and Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate), and one physical UV filter, TiO2 (Titanium oxide) were selected because they were the most widely used UV filters which were approved. In the beginning we formulated three kinds of emulsions as a control. And then we performed studies using the incorporation of different combinations of the UV filters into the three kinds of W/O emulsions by varying concentration of emulsifier and investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, particle size and distribution, and physical changes before and after accelerated test. The results indicated that using GMS as an emulsifier provide better storage stability when the concentration of GMS is added above 1.6% for control emulsions or sunscreen emulsions. Sunscreen products with Aloe oil or Mineral oil have more stable SPF efficacy than that with Amiter MA-HD. When P1789 is replaced with Uvinul A plus, they are approximately the same photostability. Finally adding physical TiO2 will decrease storage stability but increase SPF efficacy. Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product was obtained. With high efficacy of SPF50+, good stability at 45℃testing for 91 days, good photostability, esthetic appearance, and good skin feel, it is composed of GMS 1.6%, Aloe Oil 12.00%, Parsol MCX 10.00%, Parsol 1789 5.00%, Amphisol K 0.64%, Cabopol 1342 0.104%, D.W 69.92%, Germaben II 0.64%, TEA 0.10%. |
