|摘要: ||酒粕為釀酒後之副產物，近年來，將各類酒粕應用在化粧品已逐漸受消費著喜愛，但酒粕應用於化粧品之研究文獻較少。因此本研究將利用酒粕，以水為溶劑，利用三種不同的萃取方法進行萃取液及冷凍乾燥產物之製備，包括 : 加熱迴流萃取液 (H) 、微波萃取液 (M) 、直接滅菌萃取液 (A) 、加熱迴流萃取物 (H-F) 、微波萃取物 (M-F) 、直接滅菌萃取物 (A-F) ，進一步探討其活性，包括抗氧化能力、抑制酪胺酸?活性、 細胞毒性、抑菌能力、黑色素釋放黑色素測定、細胞模擬傷口癒合、細胞老化及 DNA 保護等試驗，並調製成面膜液，檢測化粧品配方之穩定性、安全性、透明度、黏度及酸鹼值等試驗。結果顯示，在三種萃取方法之萃取液均具有抗氧化及美白活性，在萃取液方面以 (H) 效果較好，在濃度 10% 時清除 DPPH．自由基之清除效果達 92.95%，清除 ABTS．+ 陽離子自由基之清除效果達 94.42%，抑制體外蘑菇酪胺?之抑制效果達 78.18%。在細胞模擬傷口癒合實驗中則以 (A) 具有較優異的效果，細胞修復能力可達 98%，細胞毒性試驗方面則三種萃取液之存活率皆可達100%。在三種萃取方法之萃取物活性評估以 (H-F) 具有較優異效果，在清除 DPPH．自由基清除率SC50 (Scavenging concentration by 50%) 為 0.64±0.04 mg/mL， ABTS．+ 陽離子自由基清除率SC50為 0.33±0.05 mg/ mL。在細胞模擬傷口癒合實驗中則以 (M-F) 具有較優異的效果，細胞修復能力可達 94%，細胞毒性試驗方面三種冷凍乾燥產物存活率皆可達100%。進一步將三種萃取方法之萃取液再經由高壓滅菌之處理方法，包括進一步高壓滅菌之加熱迴流萃取液 (H-A) 、進一步高壓滅菌之微波萃取液(M-A) 、進一步高壓滅菌之高壓滅菌萃取液(A-A) ，再次進行活性試驗，結果顯示以 (H-A) 最為優異， DPPH．自由基清除率SC50為 1.73±0.05%， ABTS．+ 陽離子自由基清除率SC50為 2.02±0.04%，體外蘑菇酪胺酸?抑制率IC50 ( Inhibitory concentration by 50%) 為 8.61±0.02%。在細胞模擬傷口癒合實驗中則以 (A-A) 具有較優異的效果，細胞修復能力可達 91%，藉由細胞模擬傷口癒合實驗發現 (H-A) 具有較優之效果，細胞毒性試驗方面三種進一步處理方法後萃取液之存活率皆達80%以上。配方產品設計，將具可行之萃取液製作成面膜液，並檢測其於化粧品配方之物性及功能性試驗。在實驗中發現pH 值、黏度皆沒有太大差異。功能性評估部分則發現受測者使用具有添加酒粕之面膜，肌膚的保濕能力皆有改善提升了27.6%，肌膚粗糙度也藉由此面膜得到改善，其肌膚粗糙度下降了6.0%。肌膚之紫外線斑點也下降 13.9%，紫質數量同時減少18.2%。從以上結果顯示酒粕具有抗氧化能力及傷口癒合效果，細胞存活率高，未來可應用於化粧品配方中，提高釀酒產業經濟價值。|
AbstractWine lees are byproducts after fermentation, varies kinds of lees application in cosmetics were gradually popular at recent years, but the literatures were still insufficient. Therefore, this study use lees as study materials, with water as the solvent, using three different extraction methods to preparation of extracts and freeze-dried product including: heated to reflux extract (H), microwave extraction solution (M), direct sterilization extract (A) heated to reflux extract (H-F), microwave extract (M-F), direct sterilization extract (A-F), further explore the activity, including antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, cell toxicity, antibacterial activity, cells measured release of melanin, cell wound healing assay were employed, cellular senescence and whether DNA protection and other tests, and prepare a mask liquid and detected the stability of cosmetic formulations, security, transparency, viscosity and pH tests.The results showed that the extracts contained antioxidant and whitening activities in three extractions, the extract in terms of (H) was the best, the DPPH． at concentrations of 10% or more. Free radical scavenging effect amounted to 92.95%, ABTS．+ cation radical effect amounted to 94.42%, and the in vitro enzyme inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase reached 78.18%. In cell wound healing assay, sample A had excellent effect cell repair capacity to 98%, cell toxicity of the three extracts the survival rates were up 100%. Activity in extracts of three extraction methods to assess (H-F) had more effective in scavenging DPPH． scavenging of radical concentration at 0.64 ± 0.04 mg / mL, ABTS. + cation radical concentration to 0.33 ± 0.05 mg / mL. In cell experiments in simulated wound healing places (M-F) had a excellent effect cell repair capacity to 94%, cell toxicity of freeze-dried products survival rates were up 100%. The extract was further three extraction methods and then through the autoclave processing methods, including autoclaving reflux heating further extract (H-A), microwave autoclave for further extracts (M-A), further high-pressure autoclave sterilization extract (A-A), again activity test, results displayed in (H-A) most excellent, scavenging DPPH． radical scavenging concentration to 1.73 ± 0.05%, ABTS． + cation radical scavenging concentration to 2.02 ± 0.04%, mushroom tyrosinase inhibition in vitro Inhibitory concentration of 8.61 ± 0.02%. In cell experiments in simulated wound healing places (A-A) had a excellent effect cell repair capacity to 91%, by cell simulation experiments found that wound healing (H-A) having the optimum effect of the three terms of cell toxicity for further processing of the extract were the survival of more than 80%.Formulation of product design, would viable with extracts made into a mask liquid and detect their physical and functional testing of cosmetic formulations. Add lees to a mask formula, skin moisturizing up to 27.6%, and skin roughness decreased 6.0%. The melanin speckles decreased to 13.9%, porphyrin simultaneously also dropped of 18.2%. From the results showed that lees with antioxidant capacity and wound healing effects, high cell viabilities, they could be used in cosmetic formulations and in the future to improve their industrial economic.