| 摘要: | 市面上敷面產品種類眾多，功能訴求與應用方式也都不盡相同，其中敷面泥產品是較常用的型態之一，但敷面泥產品常常因為含有大量的礦泥或粉劑而使得產品的流變性及安定性不佳，導致使用時易造成塗抹不均勻、覆蓋性不夠、刷紋明顯等問題，再加上目前沒有敷面產品相關的測定方法，以辨別產品品質的優劣，因此本實驗以不同的O/W型界面活性劑開發優質的敷面泥並建立有效之評估方法作為研究目標。本研究實驗主要是變化不同的O/W型界面活性劑、配合其他成份如三醯甘油脂（Aloe oil）與高嶺土、TiO2等粉劑、保濕劑以及乳化安定劑與色料等成份進行敷面泥的調製。最後Span (Sorbitan Monolaurate)/Tween (Polysorbate)被選擇當乳化劑，由於它賦與產品好的光擇度與操作使用性。所得的所有敷面泥產品再經45℃加速老化後測定其流變性質、黏度變化、色差、相分離等物性評估及紅外線水分測定儀測定與應用所建立的評估方法測定產品之應用性質評估包括手部乾燥速率、清除難易度、手部刷紋及板子刷紋以篩選出最佳的敷面泥配方依據。應用性質評估實驗是利用在數位相機在翻拍箱內設定拍攝條件，再將所拍攝之影像，利用Photoshop圖片處理軟體，於受測區域適當裁剪出固定850x450像素(pixels)之圖片，以作為應用性質評估的依據。物性評估顯示，混合保濕劑的添加會使敷面泥產品水分逸散降低。而高嶺土及TiO2的混合添加可以使產品之塗抹有較均勻的覆蓋性。另外，產品的黏稠度在3300cps~4500cps範圍，可以有較好的操作使用性。有關產品的美學方面，則發現3% Aloe oil 可以改善敷面泥的霜體厚實度。自製的敷面泥若與市售商品敷面泥比較色澤外觀，則以0.21%色料的添加可以使得總體色差(ΔE ) 達到0.95，而與市售商品之色差達到視覺不可感的程度。最後，乳化安定劑的添加例如Sigel 305、PemulenTM TR-2可以延長敷面泥的儲存安定性。依據以上之研究結果顯示，最佳配方具有加速老化32天以上的儲存安定性及最好之應用性，其配方組成如下:Span 3%、Tween 2%、DM5 2.1%、CM040 2%、Finsolv TN 1%、Stearic acid 0.40%、Cetyl alcohol 0.60%、Mineral oil 2.3%、C.C.T 2.5%、Unimer U-15 0.7%、Aloe oil 3%、Vite E 0.3%、Pemulen TR-2 Polymer 0.2%、Xanthan gum 0.6%、EDTA.2Na 0.05%、Glycerin 1%、Propylene Glycol 2%、Hyaluronic Acid 2%、Prodew 400 2.5%、Kaolin 3%、TiO2 5%、Pigment0.21%、Saligerm G2 0.8%、Triethanolamine Q.S、D.W 62.54%。
Many different types of mask cosmetics such as gel, wax, and emulsion were commercially available. Among these masks products, mask emulsions with clay are the most wildly used thanks to their efficacy. Using mask creams make the skin more texture and much better rubicundity. It is well known that wherever masks is useful for skin beauty or not is determined by their qualities. When the masks contain a great of amounts of clay, the suspension system may lead to the solution of settling problems and many problems such as poor coverage and brush marks,However, there is a little publication on the influence of varying masks on handling and physicochemical properties. This had led to the development of elegant mask creams and established a method measuring handling of the mask creams.The purpose of the study was to evaluate the influence of various kinds of components such as varying emulsifiers, a triglyceride (Aloe oil), kaolin, titanium oxide, humectants, stabilizer and pigment on the storage stability and the usage of the masks. In order to formulate the elegant masks, we selected Span(Sorbitan Monolaurate)/ Tween(Polysorbate) as a emulsifier because it provides the masks body bright and good rheological behavior. Their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, color appearance, and water lose were evaluated. In addition, handling properties such as, coverage, removal, and dryness were also tested and evaluation while a mask cream was rubbed to volunteer’s arms. To do this, a photograph of the measuring test area on volunteer’s arms was taken by the digital camera and illuminating tubes which is placed in a wooden box. In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that the mixture of humectants can result in the decreasing lose in water content of the mask creams. When Sunclear T40 AQS(oily form) was replaced by the mixture of Kaolin with powder TiO2, the mask cream with even coverage were obtained and there are acceptable physicochemical properties. A reasonable viscosity is ranging from 3300cps to 4500cps to have a good rubbing. Adding 3% Aloe oil improves the body of the mask creams. Total color difference (ΔE) of obtained masks arrive 0.95 at 0.21% of pigment (commercial mask cream as a control). Obviously, the color change is invisible. Finally, storage stability can be improved by adding stabilizer such as Sigel 305(Polyacrylamide/C13.14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and PemulenTM TR-2(Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer).Based on these findings, a desired mask cream was obtained. With a good rubbing and, stability at 45℃ testing for 32 days, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of Span 3%, Tween 2%, DM5 2.1%, CM040 2%, Finsolv TN 1%, Stearic acid 0.4%, Cetyl alcohol 0.6%, Mineral oil 2.3%, C.C.T 2.5%, Unimer U-15 0.7%, Aloe oil 3%, Vite E 0.3%, Pemulen TR-2 Polymer 0.2%, Xanthan gum 0.6%, EDTA.2Na 0.05%, Glycerin 1%, Propylene Glycol 2%, Hyaluronic Acid 2%, Prodew 400 2.5%, Kaolin 3%, TiO2 5%, Pigment0.21%, Saligerm G2 0.8%, Triethanolamine Q.S, D.W 62.54%。 |
