| 摘要: | 太陽光是我們生活中每天必定接觸到的，對於居住在亞洲的女性，美白與防曬是非常注重的議題，尤其因為環境因素造成臭氧層被破壞，使得紫外線到達地表量之增加，太陽光紫外線讓我們的肌膚曝露於不利的環境中，同時又因台灣具有熱帶及亞熱帶的氣候特色，長?日射?高且長，在陽光照射下，肌膚會產生光老化、急性皮膚炎等肌膚傷害甚至產生病變的危機，所以防曬產品的使用是相當重要的。然而，防曬產品常因為儲存環境的溫度、濕度、及氣候變化或是否受日光照射等因素，進而影響產品的品質及安定性。 本實驗研究在於探討利用目前三種市售產品中常見的化學性防曬劑：1、Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane（簡稱BMDBM，商品名Parsol? 1789）；2、Octyl Methoxycinnamate(簡稱OMC，商品名Parsol? MCX) ；3、Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate(簡稱DHHB ，商品名Uvinul? A Plus)為防曬有效成份。以GMS（Glyceryl Monostearate，甘油脂單硬酯）為界面活性劑的乳化系統，搭配添加以上所述三種防曬成分，利用單一與混合防曬不同比例添加方式與選擇不同乳化機械力進行防曬產品之調製。所配製之防曬霜經90天45℃加速老化後，評估其物化性包括外觀變化、流變性及黏度變化與防曬含量分析、與SPF有效性，依據評估結果篩選出具高安定性與觸感性皆佳之清爽型防曬配方。 研究結果顯示，添加防曬劑之配方，調製過程中使用均質乳化機（Homogenizer）之乳化效果優於高速攪拌機之乳化，並以Labsphere UV-1000S及HPLC-PDAD兩種儀器方法檢測其SPF值有效性及含量分析變化，由結果顯示可以提供快速的SPF檢測值以及增加防曬劑有效成分的鑑識速度並縮短研發時間。三種防曬劑中，將防曬成分Uvinul? A Plus取代防曬成分P1789， 於物化性及有效性各項評估中，以Uvinul? A Plus的表現均較佳。 經由一系列實驗及評估，選出最佳防曬產品為配方12?，儲存安定性可達90天，且具有良好的塗抹觸感與清爽度，經加速老化後其黏稠度仍然可維持一定的稠度，防曬係數可達SPF50+以上(81.95)，其配方組成如下：GMS1.6%、Mineral oil 12.00%、Parsol?MCX10.00%、Uvinul? A Plus5.00%、Carbopol?1342 0.104%、Amphisol K 0.64%、D.W 69.92%、Germaben Ⅱ0.64%、TEA 0.10%。
People need the sunlight for living but it will cause wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules and even skin cancer after overexposing. It is very important for us to protect their skin by avoiding overexposure to sunlight during the daytime. The use of Sunscreen products with broadspectrum UV-absorption is recommended in order to counteract against all kind of UV-induced skin damage. A great number of sunscreen products with different UV filters are available in the commercial market. However, some of them can cause degradation under extreme conditions such as UV radiation and evolved temperature, others may have storage instability. The occurrence of degradation or instability will result in the disadvantage changes in physical properties and the lower efficacy. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the influence of single filter and different filter combinations on the storage stability and the sunburn protection of sunscreen products. In order to formulate sunscreen products, three chemical UV filters, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane（BMDBM, Parsol? 1789）、Octyl Methoxycinnamate(OMC, Parsol? MCX) and Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate(DHHB, Uvinul? A Plus) were selected. GMS( Glyceryl Monostearate) is the emulsifier and the emulsification is performed using different mixers（stirrer and homogenizer）. And then the obtained sunscreens were characterized by physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior during accelerated test. In addition, the amounts of UV filter were determined using HPLC-PDAD method to realize their degradation during accelerated test. Finally, products’ efficacy with time was tested by Labsphere UV-1000s transmittance analyzer (according to Food and Drug administration method). In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that all the obtained sunscreens with single UV filters or different UV filter combinations have an esthetic appearance and good storage stability when homogenizer is used to disperse the oil and water phase. In addition, Sunscreen products including Uvinul A Plus have a better physicochemical properties and efficacy. Labsphere UV-1000S and HPLC-PDAD method show both the efficacy of products and the amounts of the UV filters were decreased with time. Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product was obtained. having high SPF but lower viscosity, good stability at 45℃testing for 90 days, good photostability, esthetic appearance, and good skin feel, it is composed of GMS1.6%、Mineral oil 12.00%、Parsol?MCX10.00%、Uvinul? A Plus5.00%、Carbopol?1342 0.104%、Amphisol K 0.64%、D.W 69.92%、Germaben Ⅱ0.64%、TEA 0.10%。 |
