| 摘要: | 近年來，選用天然、無毒且具有療效的原料，以減少化粧品中對皮膚可能產生副作用的化學物質成為當今製造化粧品的一個趨勢。因此，以中草藥萃取液作為化粧品功效性原料的研發是目前化粧品發展的趨勢。 中國古籍及許多文獻中曾記載白芷 (Angelica dahurica) 具有美白及抗氧化能力，但對於其主要功效成分及作用機制並無進一步探討。因此本研究希望針對這部分做深入研究，以瞭解白芷萃取液應用在皮膚美白的確切價值及可行性。 本實驗共設計五大項目進行探討：1、以不同萃取方法比較白芷萃取率的差異；2、以細胞毒性試驗及皮膚刺激性試驗評估其安全性；3、以美白及抗氧化等功效進行活性分析評估； 4、進行萃取液安定性評估，以確認其作為保養品原料之可行性；5、實際塗抹添加白芷萃取液之面霜進行人體美白實驗。本實驗利用水及95%乙醇為溶劑，分別進行加熱迴流、微波、冷浸、及超聲波等四種萃取方法取得白芷萃取物，研究結果顯示: 以水為溶劑之產率優於以 95%乙醇為溶劑所得之萃取物。抑制酪胺酸?活性及黑色素生成之能力試驗，結果顯示95%乙醇萃取物效果優於水萃物，其中又以微波萃取方式效果最佳。安全性評估：分別經過 24 和 72 小時細胞毒性測試後，細胞存活率皆在80% 以上，顯示萃取物無明顯細胞毒性。抗氧化能力方面，95%乙醇萃取物在清除 DPPH． 和 ABTS．＋ 自由基能力皆優於水萃物，其中又以微波萃取方法所得之萃取物效果最佳。皮膚刺激性實驗:萃取物無明顯皮膚刺激現象。安定性評估：在長時間安定性、熱安定性及不同 pH 值的測試結果顯示，萃取液外觀無明顯差異且維持安定狀態。人體皮膚美白效果試驗: 皮膚塗抹添加白芷 95%乙醇微波萃取物之面霜，經使用美白效果評析儀 (Minolta CM2500) 測量後發現，其 ITA° 值明顯提高，顯示白芷之 95%乙醇微波萃取物確實具有淡化膚色之功效。
In the recent years, to prevent hamful effects on skin, cosmetics manufaturings are tending to use nature, non-toxic ingredients. The extracts of Chinese herbs have been proved have certain skin efficacy and could be cosmetics effectively ingredients by sience experients. Many studies show that Angelica dahurica has whitening and antioxidant activities, but the exact compound and the mechanisms were not clearly understood. Therefore, we devised a set of experiment methods expecting to understand and demonstrate the efficacy of A. dahurica extract and then applies it to whitening skin care products. This study was separated into five main components to investigate. First of all, to compare the effects of A.dahurica extraction yield by different solvent and extract methods. Secondly, to evaluate the whitening and antioxidant activities of A. dahurica extracts. Thirdly, safety assessment: to assess the safety of the extract by skin irritation and cytotoxicity test. Fourthly, the valuation of stability: to assess the stability of the extract by long time stability, thermal stability and different pH stability. Finally, human whitening experiment. The results show that the first objective - the extraction rate: all of the yields extracted by water are better than 95% ethanol; Secondly, analysis of whitening and antioxidant activities: all of the 95% ethanol extracts had significant inhibition on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. On the antioxidant activities, the 95% ethanol extracts had significant scavenging on DPPH． and ABTS．＋ free radicals, and the microwave extraction had the best effect among the others. Thirdly - safety assessment: after 24 and 72 hr of cytotoxicity test, the cell survival were more than 80%. In addition, the skin irritation test also showed that the extracts had no significant stimulation on human skin. Fourthly – the evaluation of stability: after long time stability, thermal stability and different pH test, the extracts still remained stable state. Finally - human whitening experiment: after daubing the cream added A. dahurica extract 6 weeks, the results showed that the extract had excellent whitening effect on human skin, and the ITA° value was improved significant compared with the control group. |
