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    Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/29036


    標題: 敷面之開發
    The Development of Masks
    作者: 黃郁閔
    貢獻者: 化粧品應用與管理系
    張妙玲
    關鍵字: 儲存安定性
    敷面泥
    流變
    Rheological behavior
    Storage instability
    Mask Creams
    日期: 2015
    上傳時間: 2015-10-21 17:09:31 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 敷臉是現代人保養肌膚必備的保養程序,目前市面上的敷臉產品琳瑯滿目,其中敷面泥也是被優先選擇的類別之一,但是在敷面泥的劑型當中含有大量的粉劑或是礦物泥容易使得產品安定性不佳,導致塗抹時不均勻、覆蓋性不好等問題,加上目前並沒有相關測定敷面泥優劣好壞之方法,因此本研究選用GMS作為界面乳化系統開發品質及安定性佳的O/W型的敷面泥並建立有效之評估方法作為研究目標。 本研究主要是選擇GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate)界面乳化系統,添加不同增稠劑,選用Carbopol、Bentonite,再搭配其他原料,如液態油脂Mineral Oil、Dimethicone(DM5)、Aloe Oil、固體油脂Stearic acid與高嶺土、TiO2粉劑、保濕劑等成份調配出敷面泥。所有配製的敷面泥經過三個月45℃加速老化後,測定其流變性、安定性、色差及紅外線水分測定儀等物性評估並且結合所建立的有效評估方法測定樣品之應用性質評估,其中包含手部乾裂速率、清除難易度、手部刷紋(in vivo)與板子刷痕(in vitro),以篩選最佳的敷面泥配方作為依據。應用性質評估之實驗是利用數位相機設定好一致的拍攝條件在翻拍箱下進行拍攝,再將其數位相片利用Photoshop圖片處理軟體,於受測區塊適當裁剪固定850×450像素之圖片,以作為應用性質評估的依據。物性評估顯示,Biocellact Aloe Vera B保濕劑的添加並且降低固體油脂之含量以及利用皂土當增稠劑可以得到細緻度好且光澤度又佳的敷面泥產品;另外在應用性時可以有好的塗抹性以及兼具良好的刷紋與清除效果。 依據以上之研究結果顯示,最佳配方具有加速老化70天的儲存安定性及最好之應用性,其配方組成如下:GMS 1.50%、Stearic acid 0.40%、Cetyl alcohol 0.60%、Cetyl-Stearly alcohol 1.50%、Unimer U-15 0.70%、Microcrystaline 1.20%、Aloe oil 9.10%、Vite E 0.30%、Amiphisol K 0.60%、Xanthan gum 0.30%、Bentonite 0.40%、EDTA.2Na 0.05%、Glycerin 7.00%、1,3 Butylene Glycol 7.00%、Biocellact Aloe Vera B 3.00%、Hyaluronic Acid 0.05%、Prodew 400 2.50%、Kaolin 4.00%、TiO2 4.00%、Pigment 0.20%、Saligerm G2 0.80%、D.W46.10 %。
    It is important for a better beauty to use mask products during the skin care treatment. A series of mask products have been commercially available. Among the masks, the type of creams one of the most widely used. The mask creams included principal raw materials such as surfactants, thickeners, film formers and powders, etc., may have some problems about produce's storage instability and poor matching usage purpose. In addition, there is a little publication on the influence of varying the materials on their physicochemical properties and spreadability on skin. This had led to the development of elegant mask creams and a method was established to characterize the mask creams.The characteristics of the mask creams can be influenced mainly by the emulsifier and fatty components. The aim of this study was to use GMS as an emulsifier to formulate the mask cream.Varying kinds of components such as a triglyceride (Aloe oil), humectants, and thickening agents were also selected to improve the formula’s physicochemical properties and their application on skin. These properties included rheological behavior, color difference, and water lose were evaluated to characterize the mask creams. In addition, handling properties such as brush marks, removal, and dryness were measured by taking a photograph using the digital camera and illuminating tubes which is placed in a wooden box.In conclusion, the effect of the mask cream using GMS as an emulsifier can be controlled. Incorporating Biocellact Aole Vera B as a humectant and the lower amount of oil phase in the formulation with bentonite, we produce good textural cream with spreadable properties as well as high storage stability.Based on these findings, a desired mask cream was obtained. With a good rubbing and, stability at 45℃ testing for 70 days, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of GMS 1.50%、Stearic acid 0.40%、Cetyl alcohol 0.60%、Cetyl-Stearly alcohol 1.50%、Unimer U-15 0.70%、Microcrystaline 1.20%、Aloe oil 9.10%、Vite E 0.30%、Amiphisol K 0.60%、Xanthan gum 0.30%、Bentonite 0.40%、EDTA.2Na 0.05%、Glycerin 7.00%、1,3 Butylene Glycol 7.00%、Biocellact Aloe Vera B 3.00%、Hyaluronic Acid 0.05%、Prodew 400 2.50%、Kaolin 4.00%、TiO2 4.00%、Pigment 0.20%、Saligerm G2 0.80%、D.W46.10%。
    關聯: 網際網路公開:2018-08-01,學年度:103,179頁
    Appears in Collections:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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