English  |  正體中文  |  简体中文  |  全文筆數/總筆數 : 18074/20272 (89%)
造訪人次 : 4292692      線上人數 : 944
RC Version 7.0 © Powered By DSPACE, MIT. Enhanced by NTU Library IR team.
搜尋範圍 查詢小技巧：
  • 您可在西文檢索詞彙前後加上"雙引號"，以獲取較精準的檢索結果
  • 若欲以作者姓名搜尋，建議至進階搜尋限定作者欄位，可獲得較完整資料
    •  進階搜尋


    請使用永久網址來引用或連結此文件: https://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/28970


    標題: 油脂對防曬劑型之效能探討
    A study on the efficacy of lipids in different types of sunscreens
    作者: 楊宸武
    貢獻者: 化粧品應用與管理系
    洪偉章
    關鍵字: 穩定性
    效能
    不同防曬劑型
    油脂
    stability
    efficacy
    different types of sunscreens
    lipid
    日期: 2015
    上傳時間: 2015-10-21 17:06:47 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 防曬化妝品中主要具有預防抵抗紫外線傷害的來源是防曬劑，除了防曬劑之外的成份大多為油脂，油脂在化粧品中的主要功能不外乎是保濕、助於塗抹、賦予皮膚柔滑感等。而油脂於防曬化妝品，有助於防曬效能提高或維持，油脂能夠提升防曬化粧品的附加價值降低防曬劑用量，減少成本及皮膚刺激性。本研究主要探討油脂應用於不同防曬劑型的效能，並探討油脂對流變行為與穩定性之間的相關性。 本研究主要探討油脂對於不同防曬劑型化粧品的效能，探討兩者之間的效能與穩定性的相關性。先以防曬化粧品配方測試其效能，再選擇不同的油脂分別添加入化粧品配方中，探討不同的劑型、乳化劑、油脂交叉比對SPF值和流變的影響，高溫加速試驗、離心作用，測其老化前後之黏度來預測化妝品之穩定性，進而得知油脂於化粧品配方使用上的最佳效能與穩定條件。 研究結果顯示：(I)油脂和乳化劑依其結構的不同會影響防曬化粧品之穩定性。(II) O/W型乳化劑剪切變稀降幅倍數大小依次為Olivem 1000 (19) > Biophilic H (14)，W/O型乳化劑剪切變稀降幅倍數大小WE 09 (12) > DPHS (10) > EM 90 (8)，由實驗結果顯示O/W型乳化劑Olivem1000與W/O型乳化劑WE 09有較佳的穩定性和延展性。 (III) 油脂於乳化劑Olivem1000、DPHS、EM 90、WE 09剪切變稀降幅倍數大小DC 200/100 (19) = Tegosoft TN (19)、Abil Wax 9801 (10) > 空白變因 (5)、空白變因 (8) = DC 200/100 (8) = Parsol SLX (8) > Abil Wax 9801 (7)、空白變因 (12) > DC 200/100 (11) = Parsol SLX (11) = Abil Wax 9801 (11)，剪切變稀降幅倍數較大，有助於延展性，表示添加油脂對產品之延展性無提升效果。(IV)流變影響穩定性和延展性，剪切變稀降幅倍數較大，有助於延展性，延展性較佳之選擇為：O/W型乳化劑Olivem1000 > Biophilic H，W/O型乳化劑WE 09 > DPHS > EM 90，油脂DC 200/100 > Parsol SLX > Abil Wax 9801。(V)劑型、乳化劑和油脂為影響SPF值之因素。SPF值：W/O型配方 > O/W型配方，O/W劑型中乳化劑Olivem1000 > Biophilic H，油脂Tegosoft TN > DC 200/100，W/O劑型中乳化劑DPHS > EM 90 > WE 09，油脂DC 200/100 ≒ Parsol SLX > Abil Wax 9801，SPF值穩定性：O/W型乳化劑Olivem1000 > Biophilic H，油脂Tegosoft TN > DC 200/100，W/O型乳化劑DPHS ≒ WE 09 > EM 90，油脂Abil Wax 9801 > Parsol SLX > DC 200/100。(VI) 油脂對乳化劑的選擇使用會影響化粧品穩定性，可使SPF值增加，以降低的防曬劑用量，達到產品開發成本降低的好處。(VII) 由以上結果在可使用的穩定範圍內，以穩定性和SPF值定義，篩選出最佳的配方Wo3、Od、Ow，作為研究基礎，開發一種既有效又穩定的防曬產品。由本研究結果，可提供開發既穩定又有流變膚觸的高效能防曬產品參考依據。
    Effective sunscreen ingredients are major sources of prevention and resistance to UV damage in sunscreen cosmetics. In addition to effective sunscreen ingredients are mostly lipids which main functions include moisturizing, help applied, giving the skin smooth and flu in cosmetics. The lipid can improve or keep efficacy to increase worth and reduce ingredient amount, costs and skin irritation in sunscreen cosmetics. This study focused on the efficacy of lipids applied in different types of sunscreens and also investigate between the rheological behavior and the stability of relation.This study focused on the efficacy of lipids in different types of sunscreens and investigate between the efficacy and the stability of relation. First, use the sunscreen base to test it’s efficacy. Then choose different kind of lipids to apply each of them in sunscreen base to investigate SPF value and rheological behavior effect between different types of sunscreens, emulsifiers and lipids and then to find out the best efficacy and stability factor of lipids in sunscreen by measure viscosity before and after aging test and centrifugal test to forecast sunscreens’s stability.Results : (I)The structure of lipids and emulsifiers will effect sunscreens’s stability. (II)O/W type emulsifiers shear thinning decline in descending order Olivem 1000 (19) > Biophilic H (14) ; W/O type emulsifiers shear thinning decline in descending order WE 09 (12) > DPHS (10) > EM 90 (8). In test result show that O/W type emulsifier Olivem 1000 and W/O type emulsifier WE 09 are more stable and ductility. (III)The shear thinning decline of each lipids with emulsifier Olivem1000, DPHS, EM 90 and WE 09 in descending order DC 200/100 (19) = Tegosoft TN (19), Abil Wax 9801 (10) > Blank (5), Blank (8) = DC 200/100 (8) = Parsol SLX (8) > Abil Wax 9801 (7) and Blank (12) > DC 200/100 (11) = Parsol SLX (11) = Abil Wax 9801 (11). According to mean of shear thinning decline higher is more ductility that we find out lipids weren’t improve ductility of product. (IV)Rheological behavior effects stability and ductility. The selection is based on better ductility in order : O/W type emulsifier Olivem1000 > Biophilic H ; W/O type emulsifier WE 09 > DPHS > EM 90 ; lipid DC 200/100 > Parsol SLX > Abil Wax 9801. (V)Types of sunscreen, emulsifiers and lipids are factors of effect SPF value. The selection is based on SPF value in order : W/O type > O/W type ; In O/W type of sunscreen's emulsifier Olivem1000 > Biophilic H, lipid Tegosoft TN > DC 200/100 ; In W/O type of sunscreen's emulsifier DPHS > EM 90 > WE 09, lipid DC 200/100 ≒ Parsol SLX > Abil Wax 9801. The selection is based on SPF value stability in order : In O/W type of sunscreen's emulsifier Olivem1000 > Biophilic H, lipid Tegosoft TN > DC 200/100 ; In W/O type of sunscreen's emulsifier DPHS ≒ WE 09 > EM 90, lipid Abil Wax 9801 > Parsol SLX > DC 200/100. (VI)Choosing lipid to apply with emulsifier will effect stability of cosmetics, improve SPF value and also reduce ingredient amount to achieve product development cost reduction benefits. (VII)From the above results within a stable range that can be used to delimit by stability and SPF value to select better sunscreen are Wo3, Od and Ow as a research foundation to develop an effective and stable sunscreen products. By the results of this study can provide to develop stable, have rheological skin contact and high-performance sunscreen reference.
    關聯: 網際網路公開：2020-12-31，學年度：103，109頁
    顯示於類別:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

    文件中的檔案:

    檔案 描述 大小格式瀏覽次數
    index.html0KbHTML1267檢視/開啟


    在CNU IR中所有的資料項目都受到原著作權保護.

    TAIR相關文章

    DSpace Software Copyright © 2002-2004  MIT &  Hewlett-Packard  /   Enhanced by   NTU Library IR team Copyright ©   - 回饋