身體乳功效性評估及流變行為之探討

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Title:	身體乳功效性評估及流變行為之探討 Studies on the Efficacy and Rheological Behavior of the Body Emulsion
Authors:	陳鈴雅
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系洪偉章
Keywords:	流變矽油功效性評估油水含量 oil and water content rheology silicone oil efficacy assessment
Date:	2015
Issue Date:	2015-10-21 17:06:23 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	身體肌膚皮脂腺約為臉部肌膚皮脂腺的1/7，故較容易出現缺水、乾燥、脫屑的現象，因此使用身體乳來改善身體肌膚皮脂腺的不足。現今身體乳配方技術的成熟和發展，可針對不同消費者及不同市場需求，提供不同功能性及不同部位的身體乳，故本研究探討其市售身體乳及研發身體乳配方，對於肌膚的功效性及流變行為。本研究使用以身體乳作為功效性評估及油水含量和流變行為探討的樣本，樣本分為市售身體乳與研發身體乳，其中市售身體乳分為1)保濕型6種 2)滋潤型9種 3)美白型4種；研發身體乳分為添加4種矽油其3種比例(3%、5%、10%)及未填加矽油配方(空白組)。藉由身體乳塗抹於頸部肌膚在不同時間點，評估肌膚效能變化(保濕度、皮脂含量、水分散失度)及其流變行為，並藉由身體乳含油量及皮脂含量做賦脂量的相對性比較。研究結果顯示: 1)皮膚水分散失率以市售身體乳滋潤型M7為最佳(下降38.2%)；研發之身體乳液配方以填加TSF404濃度5%為最佳(下降14.6%)。 2)皮膚保濕度以市售身體乳滋潤型M1為最高(提升40.8%)；身體乳配方以添加DC9041濃度5%為最佳(提升6.3%)。 3)皮膚表面皮脂測定以市售身體乳滋潤型M5的賦脂量為最高(提升94.3%)；身體乳配方以填加DC200/100濃度10%所提供的賦脂量最高(提升75.4%)。 4)油水含量測定以市售滋潤型M4身體乳含油脂最高(41%)；身體乳配方以填加DC556濃度10%含油脂量最高(26.51%)。 5)流變行為以市售配方身體乳滋潤型 M6剪切速率0.1s-1為最高(16419.20a‧s-1)，剪切速率100 s-1時以滋潤型M8為最低(75.17 mPa‧s-1)；身體乳配方以添加TSF404高分子矽油在剪切速率0.1s-1為最高(16742.4mPa‧s-1)，剪切速率100s-1時以添加DC9041濃度3%為最低(48.92 mPa‧s-1)。由本研究結果可提供1) 研究身體乳配方與製造流程參考依據，2)身體乳對皮膚效能的評估方法，3) 油脂對身體乳之流變行為的影響。 About 1/7 of the skin's sebaceous glands on the face of the sebaceous glands of the skin of the body, is more prone to the phenomenon of lack of water, drying, peeling, so use the body emulsion to improve skin's sebaceous glands of the lack. Body emulsion recipe nowadays technologies mature and develop, for different customers and different markets, provides different capabilities and different parts of the body emulsion, studied commercially available and develop body emulsion formula, for the skin efficacy and the rheological behavior.As the use of body emulsion investigate efficacy, water content and rheological behavior of the sample in this study, body emulsion sample was divided into a commercially available and development body emulsion formula, which is divided into a commercial body emulsion (1)moisturizing 6 items (2)moisture 9 items (3) whitening 4 items; develop body emulsion add four kinds of silicone oil into its three concentrations (3%, 5%, 10%) and not filling silicone oil formulation (control group). With body emulsion smear to the skin of the neck at different points in time, evaluate the effectiveness of skin changes (moisturizing, amount of sebum, transepidermal water loss) and rheological behavior, and membership by the body emulsion oil content and sebum to do given the relative comparison of sebum.Results showed: 1) The transepidermal water loss body emulsion is commercially available as the best M7 (down 38.3%); develop body emulsion formula to filling DC200/100 concentration of 3% for the best (down 27.9%). 2) Skin moisturizing moisture type body emulsion is commercially available M1 is the highest (increased by 40.4% ); develop body emulsion formula to add TSF 404 optimum concentration of 3% (increased by 1%). 3) Determination of skin sebum moisture body emulsion is commercially available M5 given the highest sebum (increased by 94.7%); develop body emulsion formula to filling refatting provided TSF404 highest concentration of 10% (increased by 77.4%). 4) Determination of commercially available oil moisture type body emulsion containing fat M4 highest (41%); develop body emulsion formula to a concentration of 10% filling DC556 greasy highest (26.51%). 5) Rheological behavior of commercially available moisture body emulsion formula M6 shear rate of 0.1s-1 is the highest (16419.20mPa‧s-1), shear rate 100 s-1 when moisture M8 is the lowest (75.17mPa‧s-1); body emulsion formulations developed to filling TSF404 concentration of 10% at a shear rate of 0.1s-1 is the highest (16742.4mPa‧s-1), shear rate of 100s-1 at a concentration of 3% to add DC9041 is the lowest (48.92mPa‧s-1).The results from the present study may provide 1) The body lotion formula and manufacturing process reference. 2) Body lotion for skin performance assessment methods. 3) The impact of oil on the rheological behavior of the body lotion.
Relation:	網際網路公開：2020-06-25，學年度：103，133頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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