| 摘要: | 本研究探討低頻超音波（ 20千赫茲 ）導入對含不同維他命 C 衍生物精華液之皮膚吸收的影響，研究中探討的變因包括超音波導入的強度與配方組成的差異。所評估的維生素 C 衍生物包括維生素 C 醣? ( Ascorbyl glucoside;簡稱AA2G ) 、維他命 C 磷酸鎂鹽 ( Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ; 簡稱MAP ) 、3-氧-乙基維生素 C ( 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid ; 簡稱3OEAA )。 研究結果顯示，三種活性成分的皮膚穿透量在導入強度為 3W、6W 和 8W 時皆比未經導入時增加，導入強度與穿透量成正比，且皆具統計上顯著差異 ( P < 0.05 ) ，證實短暫 10 分鐘的超音波導入確實有助於美白活性成分的滲透。另外，離子性高的 MAP 經導入後皮膚穿透量提升倍數最高。 對於不同配方而言，不管有無超音波導入，添加 0.5% NaCl 配方其三個活性成分的皮膚穿透量皆比未添加 0.5% NaCl 配方增加並具統計上顯著差異 ( P < 0.05 ) ，同時也比添加 5% 1,3 BG 來的好。添加 5% 1,3BG 配方與未添加 5% 1,3BG 配方相比，僅 AA2G、MAP 的皮膚穿透量在統計上有顯著差異 ( P < 0.05 )，3OEAA 則無顯著差異 ( P > 0.05)。以配方與導入同時施作而言，三個活性成分的皮膚穿透量在添加 0.5% NaCl 配方皆比未導入時增加，並具統計上顯著差異 ( P < 0.05 ) ; 而在添加 5% 1,3 BG 配方，三個活性成分的皮膚穿透量雖皆比未導入時略增，但在統計上都無顯著差異 ( P > 0.05 )。以配方與導入同時施作而言，其比未添加 5% 1,3 BG 配方單純導入時的穿透量低 4-5 倍，反而抑制了皮膚穿透量。 以上各個實驗樣品皆利用掃描式電子顯微鏡來觀察皮膚角質層物性的變化，從結果得知，在導入 8W 時空穴作用最為明顯，皮膚鬆散程度最大且有空洞產生;而導入時在配方中添加 0.5% NaCl 其角質細胞間隙明顯比添加 5% 1,3 BG 來的大，以上皆佐證前面皮膚吸收的實驗結果。
The main purpose of this study was to evaluate the influence of different ascorbic acid derivatives in cosmetic essence absorbed on the skin when low frequency ultrasound (20 KHz) was imported. The parameters evaluated in the study included the strength of importing by ultrasound and the differences of the formula composition. The compounds tested in this study are Vitamin C glucoside (Ascorbyl Glucoside; referred AA2G), vitamin C magnesium phosphate (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate; referred to as MAP) and 3-O-Ethyl vitamin C (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; referred 3OEAA). The results showed that the skin absorption of three active ingredients are significantly increased (p < 0.05) when the ultrasound applied at 3W, 6W, 8W, and proportional with the intensities of Ultrasound. The skin penetration can be promoted by using ultrasound in ten minutes. For different formulations, whether the ultrasound import or not, the skin absorption of the three active ingredients significantly increase (p < 0.05) when the formulation contained 0.5% NaCl. When the formulation contained 5% 1,3BG, there are significantly different (P < 0.05) in the skin absorption of MAP and AA2G, but not in 3OEAA. For the formulation containing 5% 1,3BG, the ultrasound applied decreased the skin absorption compared with no ultrasound applied. The morphology of these sample were also observed by scanning electron microscope. As a result, it is the most significant, the greatest degree of loose in skin and producing hollow with the cavitation in 8W ultrasound. When adding 0.5% NaCl into the formula, it's obviously that the keratinocyte gap becomes much bigger than adding 5% 1,3BG. All of the above prove the result of the skin absorption ahead. |
