上班族女性是化妝產品訴求的主要對象，不論消費者或製造廠商，都很在意配方，與塗敷方式的有效度。目前，已有好幾種生物工程研究儀器，可量化地評估膚質。常見的測量有：測量表皮水分，經皮水分流失，皮脂量，及pH值。雖然膚質研究上，以選擇前臂屈側皮膚較多，然而，化妝品配方塗敷的主要部位在臉部；因此，研發化妝品配方，直接測量臉部皮膚，是較合理、可信的。就組織學而言，臉部不同的解剖區域，結構的差異遠甚於前臂屈側皮膚。至今，有系統地研究東方人臉部膚質有關的資料，罕見且不完全。 本研究的目的：(1)篩選四膚質檢測(表皮水分，經皮水分流失，皮脂量，及pH值)項目中，何項能有效地評估健康女性臉部皮膚的障壁弁遄F(2)確認以健康女性臉部皮膚，做生物工程研究(bioengineering study)時，最佳的臉部的位置。本研究針對15位健康的上班族女性，於臉部分10個解剖上不同的定位點，和前臂屈測的一個測量點當參考點，檢測臉部四項參數的正常值、個體內差異(Intra-individual variations)、個體間差異(inter-individual variation)，並且探討四項參數值，臉部與前臂屈側間，以及臉部四項參數彼此間的相關性，與目前皮膚特性的認知，是否相符。測量在每天上午9~11點和下午4~6點進行連續三天。所使用儀器為德國C+K 公司出產的MPA5多探頭連接器。MPA5內建油脂測定儀 Sebumeter® SM 815，以及三個測量儀器的傳輸插座：1.經皮水分散失測定儀 Tewameter® TM 300；2.表皮水分測定儀 Corneometer ® CM 825; 3.酸鹼度pH測定儀 skin-pH-Meter ® PH 905。 評估數據以SPSS軟體(10.0版)進行統計分析。臉部皮膚各項測量值因部位不同而異；雖然個體間差異，臉部皮膚大於前臂屈側，但探討相關性，前臂屈側皮膚的代表性不高。四種膚質檢測的項目中，臉部表皮水分與經皮水分散失值，個體內變異小於個體間變異，可視為檢測臉部皮膚障壁弁鄋獐衧鞢C至於臉部中較適合的位置，前額區塊為生物工程測試健康女性臉部皮膚時的最佳選擇。因變異小，只須於某一天的上午測一次即可。 Quantification of Facial Skin Properties Among Office Female WorkersAbstract The office female workers are the major population of cosmetic consuming. Both the consumer and manufacture concern the efficiency of formulations and applied procedures. Several bioengineering tools could quantify the properties of facial skin. Those common-used parameters are epidermal hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface sebum, and skin surface pH value. Although the volar forearm is the favored site for studies, the cosmetics are mainly applied on the face. The direct measurement on the facial skin becomes more reasonable and reliable. In term of histology, the facial skin show regional variation, more than the volar forearm. Until now, investigation of the oriental facial skin has yet performed systematically. This study is aimed to identify which parameter is an important and convenient indicator of the epithelial barrier function. Which facial location is best for bioengineering studies.Fifteen healthy office female workers entered the study. We had prepared 10 locations on the face with 1 control site on the volar forearm for absolute values of all four parameters, their reproducibility and correlation. Measurements were performed 2 x day (9~11 a.m. and 4~6 p.m.) over 3 consecutive days. The considered instrument were MPA5 with integrated Sebumeter® SM 815 , companied by Tewameter® TM 300, Corneometer ® CM 825, and Skin-pH-Meter ® PH 905。The statistical analyses were performed with the statistical package SPSS®.The values of four parameters were different on various skin sites of face. Although inter-individual variation was often higher on the face than on the volar forearm. The skin properties of forearm did not correlate with the face. The reliability of epithelial hydration and TEWL was justified as a stable indicator of skin barrier on account of good individual reproducibility and lower variation. Among facial sites, forehead area seemed the best for biophysical studies. Evaluation was favorably performed in the morning of any day because of its smaller variability.Key words: epidermal hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface sebum, skin surface pH, facial skin properties
