檸檬香茅(Cymbopogon citratus)亦稱檸檬草(Lemongrass)是屬於禾木科(Gramineae)香茅種(Cymbopogon)多年生草本植物，現今廣泛的運用於食品、醫藥和農業等各行業中，其實用性及安全性皆佳 。若能利用檸檬香茅精油的抗菌活性，抑制P.acnes生成並可降低化妝品的防腐劑用量，以及利用其獨特的檸檬香草氣味，來替代一般化學香精的使用，則可避免化學香精和防腐劑引發的過敏發炎反應。本研究運用檸檬香茅精油來進行抗痤瘡精油乳液開發，內容分為兩部分，第一部分為檸檬香茅精油活性試驗，第二部分為配方開發，進行安定性、安全性、有效性評估。結果顯示，0.5% 檸檬香茅精油乳液對痤瘡桿菌(P.acnes)抑制能力為 100.01%±0.35% 及對5-脂氧合酶(5-LOX)抑制能力為99.999%±0.004%。0.5% 檸檬香茅精油乳液經離心、加速老化試驗及粒徑分析，乳液無分層、顏色無變化，其粒徑小於 10 m，物性穩定，且0.5% 檸檬香茅精油乳液經挑戰試驗後均符合 U.S.P 藥典規範。有效性評估試驗發現，受測者使用 0.5% 檸檬香茅精油乳液兩週後，其臉部油脂分泌明顯改善、紫質分泌量、斑點明顯減少及臉部光澤明顯提高。綜合結果，本研究檸檬香茅精油乳液配方是適合青春痘族群使用的化妝品。 Cymbonpogon citratus also known as lemongrass belongs to the family Gramineae and genus Cymbopogon.It is widely used in food, medicine ,agriculture and other industries.Lemongrass essential oil exhibit antibacterial activity,which can be applied in inhibiting P.acnes and reducing the amount of preservative adding in cosmetics. In addition the special scent of lemongrass essential oil can replace chemical fragrance adding to cosmetics. These can avoid allergic reaction induced by excessive chemical additives.The study designed the lemongrass essential oil lotion for acne group and evaluated lemongrass essential oil bioactivities test,and stability, safety,and efficacy of the lotion.The results showed that the inhibition rates of 0.5% lemongrass essential oil was 100.01%±0.35% for P.acnes and 99.999%±0.004% for5-lipoxygenase ,respectively.The physical properties of 0.5% of lemongrass essential oil lotion did not change in centrifugation test, accelerated aging test,particle size analysis and color.The particle size of the lotion is less than 10m.Therefore,it had stable physical properties. Also,the lotion pass the challenge tests of USP Pharmacopoeia specifications.In the efficiency evaluation of 0.5% lemongrass essential oil lotion,the subjects had significantly improvements on facial oil secretion,porphyrin secretion,spots and brightness after two weeks of treatment compared to week zero. Therefore,the formulation of 0.5% lemongrass essential oil lotion can be applied in skincare for acne group.
