酯類乳化劑對乳化化妝品之穩定性探討

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Title:	酯類乳化劑對乳化化妝品之穩定性探討 Ester emulsifiers on the stability of emulsified cosmetics
Authors:	張蕙纓
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系暨化粧品科技研究所洪偉章
Keywords:	乳液
Date:	2013
Issue Date:	2014-03-07 13:55:53 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	化妝品應用中，最常應用的就是乳液劑型，將不相溶的油和水要製成穩定乳液，利用乳化劑提高穩定外，需要強的機械力作用，防止產品乳析等現象。產品的穩定會影響到產品的外觀，使用性能、高觀感的質量及最佳功效性。本研究選用穩定性高及觸感佳之乳化劑為基礎，做為化妝品配方，再添加不同比例的助乳化劑與高分子改善配方穩定性，經溫度老化及離心試驗，藉此測試乳化化粧品配方老化前後的粒徑及黏度變化，找出影響配方因素並獲得穩定配方。結果顯示：(1)Olivem1000乳化系統，乳化劑濃度2%，添加高分子0.3%，為最穩定配方。(2)Olivem800乳化系統，為單一型乳化系統，自乳化效力不足，乳化劑濃度需至6%，添加3%的助乳化劑或0.3%的高分子。(3)Arlatore 2121乳化系統，乳化劑濃度為4%，助乳化劑濃度3%及乳化劑濃度為2%，0.3%的高分子於乳化配方中，為穩定配方，其穩定效益：高分子>助乳化劑。(4)Arlacel 165乳化系統，乳化劑濃度為4%，助乳化劑濃度3%及乳化劑濃度為6%，0.3%的高分子於乳化配方中，為穩定配方，其穩定效益：高分子>助乳化劑。(5)Lipomulse Luxe乳化系統，因主成分與助乳化劑相同，只需1%助乳化劑即可穩定配方；乳化劑濃度6%→2%，3%高分子，可得到穩定性較高的配方。(6)乳化劑、助乳化劑、高分子三者間的穩定效益性：高分子>助乳化劑>乳化劑。(7)五種酯類乳化系統中，以穩定性、成本考量，其優先順序為：Lipomulse Luxe>Olivem1000 >Arlatore 2121> Arlacel 165> Olivem800。 For the cosmetic applications, the most common applicationis that we often mix oil and water to make astable emulsion. Besides, we will use the strong mechanical force to prevent unstable phenomena. However, the stability of the formulation will affect the appearance and efficacy of the product as well as the feeling of the applying. In this study, we used the emulsifiers which were stable and good feeling of the applying as cosmetic formulations. After that, we added different co-emulsifier and the polymers to improve the stability of the formulation. We had the aging test for these formulations by temperature and centrifuge force, and evaluated the stability of the formulations by the changes with the particle size and the viscosity. The results showed that: (1) The esteremulsifier, Olivem1000, was the best stability and best quality of the applying. (2)When we used emulsifiers of which ability of self-emulsifying was low, we had to add more to have a stable formulation; However, it was useless to add the co-emulsifiers and the polymers. (3) Adding the co-emulsifiers into the formulations was much more stable than the polymers (4) Adding different co-emulsifiers into the formulations produced synergy effect due to structural composition. (5) Adding the co-emulsifiers will assist emulsifying effect, the polymers will support the emulsificati on ball. (6) We had the priority order of the considerations including the stability of the formulations, the commercial value, the skin irritation: Lipomulse Luxe>Olivem1000 >Arlatore 2121> Arlacel 165> Olivem800.
Relation:	電子全文公開日期：20181231，學年度：101，167頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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