| 摘要: | 隨著時代變遷與科技進步，創新的技術因應而來，其保養品增加有效性時，附著於臉上，對於肌膚是種負擔。因此，卸妝若只單純使用清水與洗面乳清潔臉部，很容易導致細微粉粒與髒污殘留，阻塞皮膚毛孔，經日積月累的傷害下，浮出皮膚繁雜問題，慢慢的卸妝課題日漸被重視。研究發現，市面上卸妝產品種類繁雜，卸妝油、卸妝乳(霜)、卸妝凝膠、卸妝水，每種類型之卸除能力不盡相同，再加上目前仍然沒有簡便的方法測定卸妝能力的大小，以快速的分辨卸妝產品的好壞，於是本實驗主要以開發不同劑型之卸妝產品並建立卸除能力之測定方法作為研究目標。在卸妝產品調製方面，選擇不同種類之界面活性劑：Arlacel 165 (Glycerol stearate & PEG-100 stearate)、Arlacel P-135 (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate)、Tween20/ Tween80/ Span20/ Span80 (Polysorbate 20 / Polysorbate 80 / Sorbitan Monolaurate / Sorbitan Monooleate) and Radiamuls Poly 2253 / Radiasurf 7758 (Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate / Sorbitan Isostearate) 等做為乳化劑，再添加各種不同的油脂，分別調製出水包油(O/W)、油包水(W/O)、水包油微乳液(O/W Microemulsion)、油類 (Oil-type)等劑型之卸妝產品配方，評估產品之安定性外，也應用所建立的方法測定這些產品之有效性(即卸妝能力)去除。有效性評估，拍攝時光源強度控制在3870±2% 蠋光下並選擇感光度最靈敏的ISO-1000以及光圈，快門及焦距分別設為3.5F、1/400(S)及鏡頭焦距14mm作為實驗的拍攝條件，並將拍攝所得的RGB轉換成L*a*b*色差，做為估算卸除率的依據。結果顯示口紅紅色色料的塗抹量從1.0×10-5g至35×10-5g可測得線性的迴歸係數平方 R2=0.9915的直線變化關係 ( L值= 63455C + 2.1702)，以此作為卸粧產品卸除率檢測的檢量依據。而在所有劑型的配方中，最佳配方是Oil-type 劑型之配方F23，具有加速老化63天的貯儲存安定性及97%卸除率之有效性，其配方組成如下：Tween80 (15%)、Span80 (15%)、Finsolv TN (14%)、Squalane (14%)、Mineral oil (14%)、IPP (14%)、CCT (14%)、P-23 (0.30%)。
Color cosmetics are popular and can give us much better rubicundity. But a well effective color cosmetic can cause negative effects on the skin if it is not completely removed. In order to have a better removal, these products should not only be easy to rub and appropriately adhered to the skin but also be brief to remove these cosmetics on the skin rapidly. If the make-up removers do not unite with these two properties, the residue will contaminate the surface of the skin. This will lead to the difficulty in sebum metabolism and increase the risk of having skin diseases such as thick pore, acne and comedones. To avoid these irritation and leaves a clean and neat skin, using an elegant remover is a key to effectively clean the annoying residue.Various types of removers are commercially available, but their efficacy is definitely unknown. Moreover, there are a lot of ordinary researches from patents and reports about compositions of the remover that don’t include the information of their efficacy. The purpose of this study was to formulate different types of removers and to develop a method for evaluation of the ability to wipe out the make-up.For the study, various emulsifiers were used to formulate different removers including o/w,w/o,microemulsion,and oil-type. They are Arlacel 165 (Glycerol stearate & PEG-100 stearate) ,Arlacel P-135 (PEG-30 Dipolyhdroxystearate) ,Twween20/ Tween80/ Span20/ Span80 (Polysorbate 20 / Polysorbate 80 / Sorbitan Monolaurate / Sorbitan Monooleate) and Radiamuls Poly 2253 / Radiasurf 7758 (Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate / Sorbitan Isostearate). Their physical-chemical properties were examined and a method for measuring the ability of cleansing was established to evaluate their efficacy. To the evaluation of cleansing ability, firstly a photograph of the measuring test area on volunteer，sarms was taken by the digital camera. Secondly, the images were taken at a resolution (100x100 pixels) and the obtained RGB of photograph data was converted into connected to a L*a*b* color values using the image processing software designed by ourselves. Controlling the light intensity approximately at 3870±2% cd, sensitivity at Iso-1000, aperture at 3.5F, camera shutter at 1/400(S), and focal distance at 14mm are the conditions of taking photographs. The amount of lipsticks that is smeared on the skin should be controlled in the range between 1.0×10-5g and 35×10-5g. Therefore, a good linear correlation (L=63455C+2.1702) is obtained with R2=0.9915. The cleansing ability of all the formulated removers (formulation F1~F23) is calculated according to the obtained calibration curve. Based on these findings, we found that the best one was formulation F23 that the cleaning ability is above 97% and good storage ability is up to 63 days after the accelerated test. It is composed of Tween80 (15%)、Span80 (15%)、Finsolv TN (14%)、Squalane (14%)、Mineral oil (14%)、IPP (14%)、CCT (14%)、P-23(0.30%) |
