| 摘要: | 將天然植物添加於化粧品已成為市場上的趨勢，本論文的研究重點是如何將天然物添加調製成化粧品，改善天然物添加於化粧品的穩定性及有效性。本研究選定台灣產植物MG及PA，分別採用水萃取、50%酒精萃取、廠商萃取，比較三種不同的溶劑的萃取方式及抗氧化、抑制酪胺酸酶、DNA保護試驗、3T3細胞毒性試驗等活性，並將其配置成化粧品產品評估其穩定性及功效性。 結果顯示，在抗氧化活性的實驗當中，MG對DPPH˙自由基及ABTS+˙自由基50%酒精萃取時具有優異的清除率。MG50%酒精萃取液在濃度0.03 mg/mL其DPPH自由基清除率80.01±3.26%， SC50為0.02±0.017 mg/mL; 濃度0.03 mg/ml 時ABTS+˙自由基清除率 (91.63±2.06%) 優於Trolox (87.39±0.73%)。 HPLC 分析顯示MG以水萃取有較高含量的 Vitamin C (0.798 mg/mL)。在酪胺酸酶抑制試驗中50%酒精萃取之MG在濃度0.3 mg/mL時抑制效果(53.13±0.44%) 優於Arbutin (36.13±3.58%)。在3T3細胞毒性試驗當中，MG三種萃取在濃度0.1 mg/mL以下，皆有促進細胞生長之作用，細胞之存活率皆達115% 以上，有細胞增生作用，MG以水萃取及50%酒精萃取在濃度1.25 mg/mL時對pUC119 DNA有較好保護效果，分別為 81.42%、80.63% 。經由以上結果進一步將MG以水萃取液應用於化粧品中。 PA以50%酒精萃取0.1mg/mL時對於DPPH˙自由基及ABTS˙自由基皆有較好清除效果其清除率分別為 (74.61±1.57%，SC50: 0.04±0.006)、 (90.79±0.2% ，SC50: 0.024±0.012) ， PA 以50%酒精萃取對於酪胺酸酶抑制效果較好 IC50為0.427±0.04 mg/mL，而 PA 以水萃取細胞之存活率較高為79.4±17.9% 。對pUC119 DNA保護評估中 PA 以水萃取及50%酒精萃取效果為佳，分別為 78.81%、76.49%。 MG、 PA 兩種天然植物以水及50%酒精及廠商萃取在各種活性評估中顯示以廠商萃取其活性較弱。本研究將MG以水萃取液添加調製於乳液產品，產品的穩定性優於添加Vit C的產品，經使用後功效評估對於美白及紫外線色斑有顯著的改善效果。本研究顯示MG及 PA 以水萃取可應用於化粧品產品的開發。
The natural plant added to cosmetics have become a trend on the market, this thesis focuses on how to add a modulated into cosmetics natural products, natural products added to cosmetics to improve the stability and effectiveness. This study selected acerola Malpighia glabra and Plectlanthus amboinicus , used water and 50% alcohol as the solvent, and the company prvided propylene glycol as solvent with heating circumfluence extraction, comparison of three different solvent extraction methods and antioxidant, inhibiting tyrosinase enzymes, DNA protection test , 3T3 cytotoxicity test and other active and configured to evaluate its stability and cosmetic product efficacy.The results showed that antioxidant activity experiment, Malpighia glabra on DPPH ˙ radical and ABTS + ˙ radicals to 50% alcohol as the solvent extractions with excellent clearance. 50% alcohol as the solvent extract at a concentration of 0.03 mg / mL its DPPH radical scavenging rate 80.01 ± 3.26%, SC50 was 0.02 ± 0.017 mg / mL; concentration of 0.03 mg / ml when ABTS + ˙ radical scavenging (91.63 ± 2.06%) better than Trolox (87.39 ± 0.73%). HPLC analysis showed WE acerola extract with a high content of Vitamin C (0.798 mg / mL). Tyrosinase inhibition test in 50% alcohol as the solvent acerola extract at a concentration of 0.3 mg / mL when inhibitory effect (53.13 ± 0.44%) than Arbutin (36.13 ± 3.58%). In 3T3 cytotoxicity test among three kinds of acerola extract at a concentration of 0.1 mg / mL or less, the role Individually promote cell growth, cell survival rate of up to 115% are more, the role of cell proliferation, acerola extract and in WE 50% alcohol as the solvent extract at a concentration of 1.25 mg / mL when pUC119 DNA better protective effect, respectively, 81.42%, 80.63%. These results further by acerola WE extract used in cosmetics.When Plectlanthus amboinicus 50% alcohol as the solvent extraction 0.1mg/mL DPPH ˙ radical and ABTS ˙ revealed better radical scavenging effect their clearance rates were (74.61 ± 1.57%, SC50: 0.04 ± 0.006), (90.79 ± 0.2%, SC50 : 0.024 ± 0.012), Plectlanthus amboinicus extracted with EE is better for tyrosinase inhibition IC50 = 0.427 ± 0.04 mg / mL, while the left hand incense WE extraction cells was higher survival rate 79.4 ± 17.9%. Assessment on pUC119 DNA protection incense left to WE extraction and 50% alcohol as the solvent better extraction efficiency were 78.81%, 76.49%.Malpighia glabra, Plectlanthus amboinicus two natural fragrant plants to extract WE and EE and PE displayed in a variety of activities in order to assess its activity is weak PE extraction.In this study, acerola extract WE add modulation in latex products, the stability of the product is superior to add Vit C, after assessment of efficiency by the use of ultraviolet light for whitening and stain significantly improve performance. This study shows that Malpighia glabra and Plectlanthus amboinicus WE extraction can be applied to cosmetic products. |
