| 摘要: | 化妝品使用粉體的目的在於使皮膚著色，遮蓋雀斑和黑斑，並吸收汗液與皮脂，也可防禦紫外線，甚至將有效成分包覆於粉體中々矽油在化妝品中的地位不亞於水，能提升產品的質感及附加價值，但其不穩定性又常造成分離現象產生。本研究主要探討色粉及矽油用於化粧品的效能和流變性，並探討化粧品配方使用上其兩者之間的相關性。先以色粉加入含矽乳化劑的化粧品配方中，基於相似溶於相似的原理，選擇三種不同的矽油分別添加入化粧品配方中，主要乳化劑使用四種非離子型含矽乳化劑，製作成W/O型化粧品。探討不同濃度之矽乳化劑、色粉、矽油交叉搭配對SPF值、油水分佈和流變的影響，進而得知色粉及含矽原料於化粧品配方使用上的最佳條件。研究結果顯示(1) 乳化劑結構和配方油水比例會影響W/O型化妝品之穩定性。(2) 乳化劑降幅倍數大小EM90 > DC5200 > EM97S乳化劑黏度範圍EM90 > DC5200 > EM97S，由此可知乳化劑EM90有較佳的穩定性和延展性。(3) 流變影響穩定性和延展性，較佳延展性之選擇為矽油D > P > C，矽油濃度5% > 10% > 15%，粉體添加量10% > 2%。(4) 矽油和粉體添加量為影響SPF值之因素。SPF值穩定性：矽油D>P>C，SPF值：矽油C > D > P，矽油濃度5%≒10%≒15%，粉體添加量10% > 2%。(5) 矽油和粉體添加量為影響油水分布之因素。穩定性：D≒P > C，保水度：矽油D > P > C，矽油濃度5%≒10%≒15%，粉體添加量10% > 2%。(6) 由以上結果在可使用的穩定範圍內，以穩定性和SPF值來定義，篩選出最佳的配方E3-W2-D5、E3-W10-P5，作為研究基礎，開發一種既有效又穩定的產品。本研究以作為化粧品研究人員對於W/O型化粧品中的研發參考依據。
It’s such a fast paced life in this new generation. It’s a trend that every girl’s looking for being pretty and cute. The appearance of Blemish Balm Cream also satisfied a lot of people’s wish in this fashion day exactly. Blemish Balm Cream is said to be all in one with skincare and cosmetics. It includes multiple effect, such as sun block, the skin primer, foundation and so on. Germans invented the Blemish Balm Cream was used for the patient who had been done with the surgery. Not only embellished a scar and made it comfortable, but also had a stable maintenance function. After the celebrities in Korea recommend the BB cream , the Blemish Balm Cream earned a big amount of popularity due to Korea celebrities endorsed BB cream. became popular daily cosmetics around the world rapidly. The purpose of using foundation is to correct the skin and make it flawless. The main target for the foundation is to covered the freckles and age pigments. Second, it could absorb the sebum, control and balance the oiliness. Third, it prevented us from the ultraviolet that can aging the skin. Even put the active principle in the foundation. Silicone oil’s position was as important as the water. It could promote the quality of the product. But the instable factor result from separation phenomenon unfortunately. This research discuss the powder and silicone oil’s efficiency in the cosmetics and also discuss different using method between powder and silicon oil. First, you have to put powder into the cosmetics ingredient of silicon-containing emulsifiers. Basic on the same ingredient dissolve with the same ingredient, choosing three different kinds of silicone oil put it in different. Major non-ionic emulsifiers using four silicon-containing emulsifiers, made into a W/O type cosmetics. Explore the different concentrations of silicon emulsifiers, pigments, silicone oil with a right cross SPF value, water distribution and rheological effects. Then know powders and silicon-containing material cosmetic formulations used in the best conditions.The results showed that: (1) Emulsifier of the structure and formula oil and water ratio will affect the W/O type cosmetics stability. (2) A decline in multiples of emulsifier in descending order EM90> DC5200> EM97S; emulsifier viscosity range EM90> DC5200> EM97S , It can be seen emulsifier EM90 has better stability and scalability. (3) Rheology affect the stability and scalability, better scalability of the choices are: silicone oil D > P > C, Silicone oil concentration of 5% > 10% > 15%, the amount of the powder added 10%> 2%.(4) silicone oil and powder adding amount the factors affecting the SPF value. SPF value Stability: silicone D> P > C; SPF value: Silicone oil C > D > P, silicone oil concentration 5% =10%=15%, the amount of the powder added 10% > 2%.(5) silicone oil and powder adding amount factors affecting water distribution. Stability: D = P > C, , Water retention: silicone D > P > C, silicone oil concentration 5%=10%=15%, the amount of powder added 10% > 2%.(6) From the above results can be used within the stable range, the stability and SPF value to be defined ,screened the best formula E3-W2-D5, E3-W10-P5, as a research base, the development of a both effective and stable products.In this study, the researchers as a cosmetic for the W/O type cosmetics research and development reference. |
