台灣產茶葉在化粧品上之應用

CNU IR > Pharmacy and Science > Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science > Dissertations and Theses > Item 310902800/27181

Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: https://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/27181

Title:	台灣產茶葉在化粧品上之應用 The Application of Taiwan Tea on Cosmetic Products
Authors:	許安妮
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系暨化粧品科技研究所陳榮秀呂尚謙
Keywords:	茶葉 Tea
Date:	2013
Issue Date:	2014-03-07 13:55:31 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	本研究以台灣南投縣茶葉R (Camellia sinensis)及茶葉S(Camellia transarisanensis) 之茶葉作為材料，以水、50%酒精作為溶劑及廠商所提供茶葉PG萃取液，加熱迴流萃取，減壓濃縮及冷凍乾燥，所得到之萃取物，進行抗氧化活性實驗、美白實驗、總酚類化合物含量、pUC119 DNA保護實驗、細胞毒性實驗、UV吸收光譜及HPLC成份分析等實驗，進而添加於化粧產品中，進行產品之穩定性及人體功效性評估。結果顯示茶葉R之萃取物對DPPH˙自由基及ABTS˙+自由基之清除率，都是以水萃取(以水作為溶劑)具有較強的抗氧化活性，SC50分別為0.016±0.0002 mg/ml 及0.007±0.0006 mg/ml；而茶葉S萃取物則是以50%酒精萃取(以50%酒精作為溶劑)，比水萃取的抗氧化活性還要強，50%酒精萃取物之DPPH˙自由基及ABTS˙+自由基之清除率，SC50分別為0.017±0.002 mg/ml及0.006±0.001 mg/ml。但是，以統計分析顯示，茶葉S之水萃取物及50%酒精萃取物對DPPH˙自由基清除率及ABTS˙+自由基之清除率並沒有顯著的差異(P > 0.05)。在美白實驗中，茶葉R之水萃取物 (IC50=0.074±0.038 mg/ml)，比L-ascorbic acid (IC50=0.09±0.003 mg/ml)對Tyrosinase有更好的抑制效果。總酚含量測定，以茶葉S之50%酒精萃取含量最高，(252.19 mg GAE/g)，其次則是茶葉R之水萃取物，(158.80 mg GAE/g)。pUC119 DNA保護實驗中，茶葉R及杉林溪高山茶以三種溶劑萃取，在濃度0.125 mg/ml對pUC119 DNA皆有保護效果。細胞毒性實驗中，茶葉R及茶葉S萃取物，在濃度0.05mg/ml下， 3T3纖維母細胞之存活率皆有達到60 %以上。HPLC成份分析得知，茶葉R及茶葉S以三種不同溶劑萃取中，含有兒茶素(Catechin)、表兒茶素((-)Epicatechin)、綠原酸(Chlorogenic acid)、咖啡酸(Caffeic acid)之成份；其中以茶葉S 50%酒精萃取物含有較高含量的(-)Epicatechin，含有1.834 mg/ml。加入茶葉R之水萃取物調製成乳液進行人體功效性評估， Base (無添加任何活性成份)與Sample 1 (Base+茶葉R水萃取物)、Sample 2 (Base+Vit C)、Sample 3(Base+茶葉R水萃取物+Vit C)在美白檢測及全臉膚質檢測都有顯著性的差異(P < 0.05)。顯示有添加茶葉R萃取物之產品對於受測者皮膚的明亮度是有顯著性的差異，其中以添加茶葉R水萃取物之產品對皮膚的明亮度(L)有明顯的提升，皮膚明亮度(L)平均由63.73提升至72.37，改善率為10.1 %，未來可以將茶葉R之水萃取物應用於美白產品之開發。 In our present study, we used Tea R (Camellia sinensis) and Tea S (Camellia transarisanensis) were planted in Taiwan Nantou, used water and 50% alcohol as the solvent, and the company prvided propylene glycol as solvent with heating circumfluence extraction, than decompress concentrating, freeze-dried. Took the tea extracts conducted to in vivo efficacy assessment, MTT assay and HPLC component analysis, applied in the development of cosmetic products, and then the stability of the products and efficacy assessment. Our results indicated that the Tea R extracts with water as for radical scavenging DPPH and ABTS, had strong scanenging, respectively SC50 is 0.016±0.0002 mg/ml and 0.007±0.0006 mg/ml. Tea S extracts with 50% ethanol as for radical scavenging DPPH and ABTS, respectively SC50 is .017±0.002 mg/ml及0.006±0.001 mg/ml. However, statistical analysis showed that Tea S extracts with water and 50% ethanol on DPPH ˙ radical scavenging and ABTS ˙ + radical scavenging rate was not significantly (P> 0.05). Tea R water extract (IC50=0.074±0.038 mg/ml) has antimelanogenic the better than L-ascorbic acid (IC50=0.09 mg/ml). Determination of total phenolic content, the first is Tea S extracts with 50% ethanol (252.19 mg GAE/g), the second is the Tea R water extract(158.80 mg GAE/g). pUC 119 DNA protention experiment, at 0.125 mg/ml , Tea R and Tea S with three extract protection the pUC119 DNA. MTT assay, at 0.05 mg/ml, Tea R and Tea S with three extract, make 3T3 fibroblast survival rate more than 60%. HPLC analysis, Tea R and Tea S with three extract, contains Catechin, (-)Epicatechin, Chlorogenic acid, Caffeic acid, Tea S 50% ethanol extract is the most abundant compound with about 1.834 mg/ml (-)Epicatechin on basis. In vivo efficacy assessment, add to Tea R extract can take upgrade in skin bright (L value), and improved from an average of 63.73 to 72.37, improvement rate was 10.1 %, so Tea R extract can development and application on cosmetic products.
Relation:	電子全文公開日期：20180703，學年度：101，210頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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