青春痘為皮膚毛囊開口處常見的疾病。在青春痘的治療上，常以抗生素來抑制痤瘡桿菌生長。但近年來因抗生素的使用泛濫，導致細菌產生抗藥性的現象日趨嚴重。為了解中草藥對於痤瘡改善之效益，本論文將五種中草藥，以水為溶劑，經冷浸、蒸餾及微波萃取，評估其各項活性，包括細胞毒性、抗菌活性、細胞模擬傷口癒合、抗氧化能力、美白等活性。經篩選後，將萃取液添加於化粧品配方中，並觀察其對於化粧品配方的穩定性、安全性和塗抹於人體臉部的痤瘡改善效能，以探討應用於抗痘化粧品之可行性。在抑菌試驗結果顯示，冬青科植物、杜仲科植物及薔薇科植物在濃度1mg/mL時，對痤瘡桿菌具中度抑菌能力，抑菌圈分別為11.17±0.22mm、11.00±0.00mm、12.83±0.22mm。在細胞模擬傷口癒合試驗，細胞移行速率以薔薇科植物>冬青科植物 >杜仲科植物。產品配方設計方面，添加單方中草藥萃取液配方，以冬青科植物-具較強之紫質抑制效果，可降低紫質生成量達55.21 %；在全臉膚質檢測中，發現其紅色區具有改善的趨勢。添加複方中草藥萃取液之乳液，除了對痤瘡有改善外，亦有膚色之明亮度提升效果；另外在臉部保濕測試中，發現複方中草藥萃取液亦具有保濕效果，故未來可應用在抗痘、美白及保濕之多功效產品中。 Acne vulgaris is a common skin disease involving pilosebaceous follicles. Antibiotics have been widely used to treat the acne. This resulted in the development of drug resistance. Five Chinese herbal extracts were used In this study. The activities of UV absortion, antibacterial activity, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition activity, cell toxicity and wound healing assay were employed. The extracts were then added in the cosmetic formula and the anti-acne activities were examed in vivo. The results indicated herbs extracted by microwave-assisted extraction had high yield. Anti-bacterial effect of disk-diffusion test of Aquifoliaceae, Eucommiaceae Engler and Rosaceae against P. acnes with highest activity at 1 mg/disc (inhibition zone: 12.83�0.22mm, 11.17�0.22mm and 11.00�0.00mm). In wound healing assay showed sequence that migration rate of cells was Rosaceae > Aquifoliaceae > Eucommiaceae Engler. In summary, all the formula proposed in this study will not induce allergy and irritation in vivo, and can reduce the amount of prophyrines, and also increase the skin lightness, in the future we can use the formula and Chinese herbs development and application on anti-acne and whitening products.
