| 摘要: | 有感目前所有的化粧產品大多數原料為石化工業之副產品或人工製造之化學原料，這些原料對環境帶來莫大衝擊，不環保也無永續再生的理念；對人類健康更可能造成不利的影響，現今許多原因不明的文明疾病，其病源全指向這些人工化學製品。因此在化粧品中添加天然植物萃取物或強調天然訴求的「天然化粧品」，成為當今極具發展潛力的商品。目前及未來生技產品發展趨勢都強調回歸自然，亦即研發天然有機成份添加在食品、化粧品或醫藥品中，是現今科技之發展最重點。因此本研究主要就是要探討萃取自台灣屏東種植的有機玫瑰花所具有的抗氧化能力，實驗結果顯示：玫瑰花精油、粗花青素與粗多醣體之抗氧化效能均非常優異，尤其玫瑰花粗花青素的抗氧化效果最顯著，不過僅有玫瑰粗多醣體具有優異的亞鐵離子螯合的能力。在皮膚美白功效的評估顯示：除玫瑰花精油在100 g/mL具有中等抑制酪胺酸酶能力外，粗花青素與粗多醣體均無顯著抑制酪胺酸酶的能力；但是在抑制B16細胞生成黑色素的評估，玫瑰花精油、粗花青素與粗多醣體在72小時的作用時間下，雖然在100 g/mL濃度下並無顯著的抑制效果，但在高濃度的劑量下(500 g/mL與1000 g/mL)卻可以發現有顯著的抑制B16細胞生成黑色素的活性。玫瑰花瓣所萃取的粗多醣體在吸濕能力與保濕能力的評估上均與玻尿酸相似，因此萃取的玫瑰多醣是具備開發成為天然保濕成份及化粧品原料的潛力。
The majority of cosmetics products consisting of ingredients derived from the associated products of petrochemical industry or chemical materials artificially manufactured, bringing a tremendous impact to the environment. These ingredients are not environmentally friendly or contain concepts of sustainability, and substantially affect human health. Moreover, pathogenesis of many unidentified lifestyle diseases today have been associated with theses artificially chemical products. Hence, adding natural plant extracts to cosmetics or emphasizing on natural appeals in “natural cosmetics” becomes the most potential products for future development. Most existing and future cosmetics all emphasize on the development trend of returning to nature and basics; in other words, the key to technology development today aims at developing natural organic ingredients that can be added to food, cosmetics or medicines. For this reason, this study aims to understand the antioxidation of extracts from the organic rose grown in Pingtung, Taiwan. The experiment results show excellent antioxidant effects from rose essential oil, anthocyanins, and polysaccharides; particularly rose anthocyanins offer the most significant antioxidant effect. Nonetheless, only rose polysaccharides contain remarkable ferrous ion chelating activity. With regards to the evaluation on skin whitening potentials, the results show that except for 100 g/mL of rose essential oil containing medium tyrosinase inhibitory activity, neither anthocyanin nor polysaccharide contains significant inhibition of tyrosinases activities. On the other hand, with regards to the evaluation on inhibition effects of melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, under 72 hours of reaction time and 100 g/mL of concontration, we did not find significant inhibitory effect from rose anthocyanin, rose essential oil and polysaccharide; but, we found significant inhibition activity of melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells under high concentration of dose (500 g/mL and 1000 g/mL). The valuation on the hydro absorption and moisturizing effects of polysaccharides extracted from rose petals is similar to those of hyaluronic acid. Therefore hence rose polysaccharide extract is potential for development into natural moisturizing ingredients. |
