微乳液 ( Microemulsion ) 為常見的化粧品載體之一，製備簡易，具有黏度低、熱力學穩定、高增溶性及使產品穩定等特性。本研究主旨在於探討 α - Arbutin、β - Arbutin 及 D - Arbutin 之微乳液製備與物理化學之安定性評估。藉由儲存於不同溫度下，以高效能液相層析儀 ( High - Performance Liquid Chromatography，HPLC )、雷射粒徑分析儀 ( Zetasizer ，Nano ZS )與黏度計 ( Brookfied，DV-I) 來評估不同型態之熊果素於配方中的安定性。結果顯示儲存溫度之高低，會影響活性成分於微乳液中之安定性。無論是將三種活性成分添加於O/W 型或W/O 型微乳液中，儲存於低溫4℃下，有助於減少活性成分之降解。而黏度與粒徑則較不受到溫度影響。α - Arbutin 包覆於W/O 型微乳液其經皮吸收效果最好，β - Arbutin 及 D - Arbutin 雖殘留於皮膚表面，但其經皮吸收效果β-Arbutin 以O/W 型微乳液為優，而D- Arbutin 則以添加於W/O 型微乳液中經皮膚吸收效果最好。 Microemulsion that has the properties of thermal stability, low viscosity, high solubility, and easy preparation is one of the common cosmetics carrier. The aim of this study is to investigate the preparation of microemulsion of α - Arbutin, β - Arbutin and D - Arbutin and assess the physical and chemical stability. Use High - Performance Liquid Chromatography, Particle Size Analyzer by Static Light Scattering Method ( Zetasizer，Nano ZS ) , and Viscometer ( Brookfied，DV-I) to evaluate the stability of the different types of Arbutin with storing at different temperatures. The results show that the high or low storage temperature can affect the stability of the active components in the microemulsion. When the three active components are added in the O/W or W/O microemulsion and stored at 4oC, they can contribute to reduce the degradation of the active components.Viscosity and particle size can not be affected by temperature. The best effect is that the α-Arbutin is encapsulated by W/O microemulsion through skin absorption. Although β-Arbutin and the D-Arbutin remain on the surface of skin, the best skin absorption effect of β-Arbutin is in the O/W microemulsion. The best of skin absorption is that the D-Arbutin is added to the W/O microemulsion.
